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[mases apprentice]

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

Originally Posted by mases apprentice

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees


Sounds like a piece of !@!!. 
Coilovers alone means that the person wanted a lower ride, but didn't realize that properly lowering a vehicle and keeping the body aligned and in decent shape requires a LOT more than just coilovers/springs/whatever.

The fact that there's no brand names tells me that they were probably whatever the flavor of the week was at AutoZone.

No info on transmission other than that it's manual (at 90k miles).

"Exhaust system"? He doesn't know what part of the exhaust? Headers? Cat back? Coffee can muffler? Is back pressure going to be an issue?

New brakes, but no other info on them?

Sounds like someone who thinks they're ready for a race but doesn't know the first thing about cars other than that they need to be low and have tow hooks.

I'd offer $700. Remember that mods do not add value (in this case). With just the coilovers having been on the car, the body might not even be squared.

If you want a modded car, buy a stock on in good condition and go from there. The mods on that car total less than $1k brand new anyways assuming they're not the cheapest possible parts.

Sorry if that's disappointing— just don't want a fellow NT'er to get shafted.

I have a feeling you have no idea what your talking about. Even without the mods, the shell alone is worth 600-1000. with a motor and ****** 2-3k is more then reasonable.

and you are straight talking gibberish about coilovers not properly "keeping the body aligned" or what ever B.s. coilovers alone are worth more then 500 dollars. and is a way better idea then Springs. Coilovers on any car should keep the car "aligned"(of course with alignment after installation) LOL like keepz said its a D series motor, its not going anywhere and it can take alot of things thrown at it. Is back pressure gunna be an issue HAHAHAHAHA. even if it has new brakes (probably pads) its still a expensive he doesnt have to make.

eyeseesoles should test drive the car to see if there are any CEL, how the clutch is, and how the transmission shift. No whining, shifts are precise, and motor runs well (no leaky fluids or squeals.  get a vehicle history report to see if there were any prior accidents.

Basic suspension knowledge. A car's geometry from the factory is built to be squared so that the body only moves up and down— not laterally or longitudinally. When you alter one part of that (i.e. ride height), you have to alter other things too in order to keep the geometry straight. Things like a panhard rod are generally necessary. Even if the body is only moving 1/2" from side to side, if it's been doing that for the life of the car (90k miles) you can guarantee that at the very least you probably have some bolts backing themselves out. I agree that coilovers are much better than springs, but lowering a car properly involves more than renting a spring compressor and throwing a new part in there. If that's "straight gibberish" to you, then maybe you should reconsider blindly defending some random strangers car just so you can take a crack at someone trying to warn another NTer about the possible underlying problems.
Even on a late 90s JDM motor, throwing an "exhaust system" on there can create compression problems, especially given how small the motor is. Having even mildly low compression on 1 of 4 cylinders is enough to make me turn down a $3700 car and move on to another one. This goes back to the whole thing where if you alter one thing, you need to alter the other parts so that they work together. With few exceptions, no part on a car can just be swapped out for some other random part without it affecting something else.

As far as the brakes, he didn't have to make the "expensive" [sic], but if he did and perhaps thought he "upgraded" them, but is in fact destroying the brake lines or wheels in the process, that's something I would be concerned about. Remember, we're talking about someone who added tow hooks to their car strictly for appearance. This isn't beyond the realm of possibilities.

All I'm saying EyeSeeSoles is be careful when you go look, poke around under the hood, check the dipstick, check fuses, look under wheel wells, and stick your head under the rear end with a flashlight and take a good look at everything. As to see receipts for the parts and work. If receipts are missing for parts, you have to remember that those parts could have come off another car with 90k miles before it went on his.

First of all, you're still talking gibberish, go to any car forum and say that and you'll get flamed. Coilovers installed right will act much better as the ride will be much stiffer. idk what side to side stuff your talking about. it would actually be much better then stock suspension. There are no downfalls on coilovers besides harsher rides. plain and simple. Stop preaching your incorrect information. There are no underlying problems unless you need to rebuild the coilovers. 

please learn about exhausts and what they do. google exhaust velocity. being that it is an old car, some piping or muffler may have been rusting. Most people think mufflers are exhausts. 
How the hell can upgraded brakes(most likely pads) destroy the  brake lines or wheels of the car. DUDE do you know what you are typing?

never give another person your advice for car information again. please tell me what you drive and what other car forums you are on.

 

 

[PRIME]

Originally Posted by 23nando23

Slow Down, you know you can't catch me

Good Lord..... 

 

[1994ss]

If you couldn't tell by my username...

 

[daytona 5000]

^

 

[k town trash]

Originally Posted by DtotheD

E63? 

 

[10 piece nuggets]

Originally Posted by mases apprentice

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

mases apprentice wrote:

First of all, you're still talking gibberish, go to any car forum and say that and you'll get flamed. Coilovers installed right will act much better as the ride will be much stiffer. idk what side to side stuff your talking about. it would actually be much better then stock suspension. There are no downfalls on coilovers besides harsher rides. plain and simple. Stop preaching your incorrect information. There are no underlying problems unless you need to rebuild the coilovers. 

please learn about exhausts and what they do. google exhaust velocity. being that it is an old car, some piping or muffler may have been rusting. Most people think mufflers are exhausts. 
How the hell can upgraded brakes(most likely pads) destroy the  brake lines or wheels of the car. DUDE do you know what you are typing?

never give another person your advice for car information again. please tell me what you drive and what other car forums you are on.

 


I agree, coilovers is basically all you need. Hell you could just throw on springs and never have to get new shocks if it isnt too low. Dude is talking way too much carscience. Its serious, but you are talking at WAY ends of the spectrum.

 

[10 piece nuggets]

Originally Posted by Air Spider 777

Originally Posted by JewSeeJay

Originally Posted by Air Spider 777

All I was saying, was I'll race him. lol

Automatic vs automatic (assuing the C is auto).

Vroooom, who can step on the gas harder.

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spoiler [+]

Spoiler

Jokes

Heard Ferrari may be getting rid of manual gearboxes. Smh. GTR doesnt came in manual either, what am I poking jokes at

.

 

[nikeairsncrispytees]

Originally Posted by mases apprentice

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

Originally Posted by mases apprentice


I have a feeling you have no idea what your talking about. Even without the mods, the shell alone is worth 600-1000. with a motor and ****** 2-3k is more then reasonable.

and you are straight talking gibberish about coilovers not properly "keeping the body aligned" or what ever B.s. coilovers alone are worth more then 500 dollars. and is a way better idea then Springs. Coilovers on any car should keep the car "aligned"(of course with alignment after installation) LOL like keepz said its a D series motor, its not going anywhere and it can take alot of things thrown at it. Is back pressure gunna be an issue HAHAHAHAHA. even if it has new brakes (probably pads) its still a expensive he doesnt have to make.

eyeseesoles should test drive the car to see if there are any CEL, how the clutch is, and how the transmission shift. No whining, shifts are precise, and motor runs well (no leaky fluids or squeals.  get a vehicle history report to see if there were any prior accidents.

Basic suspension knowledge. A car's geometry from the factory is built to be squared so that the body only moves up and down— not laterally or longitudinally. When you alter one part of that (i.e. ride height), you have to alter other things too in order to keep the geometry straight. Things like a panhard rod are generally necessary. Even if the body is only moving 1/2" from side to side, if it's been doing that for the life of the car (90k miles) you can guarantee that at the very least you probably have some bolts backing themselves out. I agree that coilovers are much better than springs, but lowering a car properly involves more than renting a spring compressor and throwing a new part in there. If that's "straight gibberish" to you, then maybe you should reconsider blindly defending some random strangers car just so you can take a crack at someone trying to warn another NTer about the possible underlying problems.
Even on a late 90s JDM motor, throwing an "exhaust system" on there can create compression problems, especially given how small the motor is. Having even mildly low compression on 1 of 4 cylinders is enough to make me turn down a $3700 car and move on to another one. This goes back to the whole thing where if you alter one thing, you need to alter the other parts so that they work together. With few exceptions, no part on a car can just be swapped out for some other random part without it affecting something else.

As far as the brakes, he didn't have to make the "expensive" [sic], but if he did and perhaps thought he "upgraded" them, but is in fact destroying the brake lines or wheels in the process, that's something I would be concerned about. Remember, we're talking about someone who added tow hooks to their car strictly for appearance. This isn't beyond the realm of possibilities.

All I'm saying EyeSeeSoles is be careful when you go look, poke around under the hood, check the dipstick, check fuses, look under wheel wells, and stick your head under the rear end with a flashlight and take a good look at everything. As to see receipts for the parts and work. If receipts are missing for parts, you have to remember that those parts could have come off another car with 90k miles before it went on his.

First of all, you're still talking gibberish, go to any car forum and say that and you'll get flamed. Coilovers installed right will act much better as the ride will be much stiffer. idk what side to side stuff your talking about. it would actually be much better then stock suspension. There are no downfalls on coilovers besides harsher rides. plain and simple. Stop preaching your incorrect information. There are no underlying problems unless you need to rebuild the coilovers. 

please learn about exhausts and what they do. google exhaust velocity. being that it is an old car, some piping or muffler may have been rusting. Most people think mufflers are exhausts. 
How the hell can upgraded brakes(most likely pads) destroy the  brake lines or wheels of the car. DUDE do you know what you are typing?

never give another person your advice for car information again. please tell me what you drive and what other car forums you are on.

 

You clearly don't understand this concept of the geometry of a car. I never said that there was a downside to coilovers— I said that lowering the car ALONE was a bad idea. As far as lateral movement, it's real and it's there. I pre-googled it for you here. No LMGTFY.
I'm well aware of what "exhausts" do, having worked on the install and replacement of a handful of catback, axleback, and mid-pipe systems over the years. This is why I understand such a concept of back pressure creating low compression problems. In all fairness, on my own personal car I only have axle-backs at the moment, but that's because they were a gift from my parents and I'll be doing the X-pipe whenever I decide to install LT headers.

If I put 14" Baer rotors on a 14" wheel, it would definitely be upgraded, but it would also definitely be slowly carving away the inside of a wheel. Or if I didn't bleed the brake lines properly before installing them or used the wrong kind of fluid because I modded my car based on the assumption that I could upgrade something and leave all the other components stock then I would practically be asking for a brake line failure.

Me? I drive a 2009 Mustang GT. It's a T3650 5-speed, and is currently sitting in a garage where it will be receiving a full BMR Suspension overhaul (haven't decided between lowering it with springs, APHB, UCAs, LCAs, and sway bars, or if I should go all out and get the Tokico D-Specs too),  a 3.73 rear end (previously 3.55), an MGW STS (installing myself), and a CAI+tune (also doing myself). I'm waiting for a response from the BMR rep about working out the details of my order. I actually don't feel the need to tell you what other forums I participate in, but 4 of them are Mustang forums, and I'm also an avid Car+Driver, Jalopnik, Motor Trend, and MM&FFs reader. I also attend Barrett Jackson and Mecum auctions as often as I can. (For the record, Mecum is way better than Barrett Jackson).

I'll admit I'm an American Muscle nerd, and that we're talking about a JDM car here. But in that case I'll also admit that I went through a long phase from the time I was 12 until I was 20 where I bought nearly every issue of Import Tuner off the newsstand (which was a ******ed decision— a subscription would have been the intelligent thing to do) and read it cover to cover. In addition to that, my best friend for many years drove a Mazdaspeed Protege that had some half-##% work done on it by the previous owner which we spent several weekends correcting. This is the reason for my concern about the car with some sweet coilovers and an "exhaust system" and "upgraded brakes".

I didn't come in here to showboat about car knowledge or %$+$@ at other NTers. I came in here to look at fellow NTers rides and attempted to warn another NTer about the possible problems in a car. Now that you've asked, you have a short description of my car interests and a short list of some of my hands on experience with cars. My thought is that you were expecting me to tell you that I drive an automatic 1982 Camry but that my grandma once drove a Datsun or something awesome like that. If that was the case, I'm sorry to disappoint you. I've spent way too much time in here arguing over a complete stranger's car so that you can have the last word, so go for it. I'm done with this discussion. I hope EyeSeeSoles makes the right decision on the car.

 

[nikeairsncrispytees]

Originally Posted by 10 Piece Nuggets

Originally Posted by mases apprentice

I agree, coilovers is basically all you need. Hell you could just throw on springs and never have to get new shocks if it isnt too low. Dude is talking way too much carscience. Its serious, but you are talking at WAY ends of the spectrum.


You can choose to lower your car however you want to. The way I see it, you're talking about altering the way a 2000 pound piece of metal rides on 4 rubber tires that are responsible for 500+ pounds each, in which a human body will be riding. I'd rather spend the money and do it right than take the risk. Do it once, do it right.

 

[dens415]

You went 3.73s from 3.55s. Shoulda gone 4.10s

Don't fear the gear.

 

[Bert.]

Originally Posted by 23nando23

Slow Down, you know you can't catch me

i hate you

 

[ninjahood]

Originally Posted by 1994SS

If you couldn't tell by my username...

there was a disrespectful thread about this car a sec ago that im still ashamed that it originated here.....

 

[Bert.]

think ill finally post my whip tomorrow, hoping you guys will like it

 

[nikeairsncrispytees]

Originally Posted by DeNs415

You went 3.73s from 3.55s. Shoulda gone 4.10s

Don't fear the gear.

Ha. That's what everyone tells me. I drive 60 miles round trip every day with lots of highway miles so I don't think 4.10s will really work for me right now. I plan on going F/I in the future anyways so a 4.10 in a blown car wouldn't work out that great. The rear end is getting replaced by insurance and the Ford 3.73 rear end is a somewhat common option so it won't actually cost me anything out of pocket since it'll probably come off a salvaged vehicle with less miles anyways.

 

[TheGodFresco]

Originally Posted by Zyzz

think ill finally post my whip tomorrow, hoping you guys will like it

why does it matter if we like it or not?

 

[keepzdasneakz]

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

Originally Posted by DeNs415

You went 3.73s from 3.55s. Shoulda gone 4.10s

Don't fear the gear.

Ha. That's what everyone tells me. I drive 60 miles round trip every day with lots of highway miles so I don't think 4.10s will really work for me right now. I plan on going F/I in the future anyways so a 4.10 in a blown car wouldn't work out that great. The rear end is getting replaced by insurance and the Ford 3.73 rear end is a somewhat common option so it won't actually cost me anything out of pocket since it'll probably come off a salvaged vehicle with less miles anyways.

Just curious, how come you're not going the s/c route like most stang owners opt for when they boost?

 

[airjordan23z]

Want to lower car and change wheels/tires.. any recommended upgrades for this besides wheels/tires? 07 AT type s.. let me know what you guys think.

 

[nikeairsncrispytees]

Originally Posted by keepzdasneakz

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

Originally Posted by DeNs415

You went 3.73s from 3.55s. Shoulda gone 4.10s

Don't fear the gear.

Ha. That's what everyone tells me. I drive 60 miles round trip every day with lots of highway miles so I don't think 4.10s will really work for me right now. I plan on going F/I in the future anyways so a 4.10 in a blown car wouldn't work out that great. The rear end is getting replaced by insurance and the Ford 3.73 rear end is a somewhat common option so it won't actually cost me anything out of pocket since it'll probably come off a salvaged vehicle with less miles anyways.

Just curious, how come you're not going the s/c route like most stang owners opt for when they boost?

SC is my plan. Forced induction is a general term for either SC or Turbo. I'll probably go with the Roush M90 since it'll get me pretty close to 500whp and my understanding is that the 3V 4.6 block can't handle much more than that without rebuilding it anyways. If I decide that 470-500 isn't enough, I'll probably just go with a C5 Z06 Vette and turbo that. If you get the chance to, download the first Super Speeders video and check out Rob Ferreti's TT Vette. Just bananas.
Or I'll win the lotto and get a Lingenfelter. 

 

 

[23kidd]

Fellas i need help here, my 07 fx35 doesnt have any way to connect my ipod so im looking into this, what yall think? Anybody use something similar?http://www.crutchfield.co...e-for-Nissan.html?tp=120

 

[al audi]

Srt challenger is very nice. I prefer challenger over camaro. I think it looks way better.

 

[haddix]

Originally Posted by Lpheat22

Picked this up a couple of weeks ago, can't wait to start messing with it

Nice Tacoma! What's your plans for it? I currently have a 1st gen dcab Tacoma and love it. Also just because I loved my old 4runner. Here are some pics. Sold it 2 years ago.35's 4.88 gears, locked front and rear, custom bumpers and snorkel

 

[sreggie101]

Originally Posted by airjordan23z




Want to lower car and change wheels/tires.. any recommended upgrades for this besides wheels/tires? 07 AT type s.. let me know what you guys think.

def wouldn't lower it anymore, that ground clearance looks good enough. actually it all looks

 

[dens415]

Originally Posted by keepzdasneakz

Originally Posted by NikeAirsNCrispyTees

Originally Posted by DeNs415

You went 3.73s from 3.55s. Shoulda gone 4.10s

Don't fear the gear.

Ha. That's what everyone tells me. I drive 60 miles round trip every day with lots of highway miles so I don't think 4.10s will really work for me right now. I plan on going F/I in the future anyways so a 4.10 in a blown car wouldn't work out that great. The rear end is getting replaced by insurance and the Ford 3.73 rear end is a somewhat common option so it won't actually cost me anything out of pocket since it'll probably come off a salvaged vehicle with less miles anyways.

Just curious, how come you're not going the s/c route like most stang owners opt for when they boost?

I planned on going turbo on my 07 but DD a turbo mustang is NOT the business really. My tuner/builder at the time said he would do it but highly recommended not to if it was going to see regular duty. If I still had my mustang it'd be Whipple or bust. I was a Kenne Bell fan but to me it seemed like the Whipple kit was more DD friendly kit.

 

[2lipslegit]

Originally Posted by 1994SS

If you couldn't tell by my username...

That doesnt look like a 94 to me...

Anyway, Ive got a 95 DGGM that I've been thinking about selling lately, still not quite sure.

And Ninja, Ima need a link to that thread.

 

[jewseejay]

bouta throw these eibachs on tommorow!

ran into some unexpected delays...

needed both front wheel bearings replaced and an alignment. Infiniti dealer did it good will outta warranty

 

now im rdy for a drop and some proper black shoes