The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

I've noticed that majority of the non-iphone photos are in square format.

Question: Do you guys prefer the high-res images in that format or do you actually like seeing the picture in its entirety (16:9, wide) ?

I still prefer the full photo, whether it's 4:3, 3:2, etc. I think IG really changed the game though since it launched with the forced square crop, and a lot of people adapted the format and found ways to make images work.
 
So I realize that my color-deficiency with my eye sight is playing a part in my post :-(

Does anyone else who shoots in here have color-deficient vision/use glasses?
 
So I realize that my color-deficiency with my eye sight is playing a part in my post :-(

Does anyone else who shoots in here have color-deficient vision/use glasses?

I think its a normal thing that everyone goes through to some extent. I have to take breaks in between long sessions of editing... so that i can get a fresh look at the images im editing.
 
Rad shot man.

And yeah....love the lecture. I was just saying how I wanted to sit in on a photography class and this seriously fills that void. I know I have been saying I never shoot RAW files but I think I need to start doing it. It's kind of been one of my big photography oddities that I have that I don't get why I never do but I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a new external hard drive and start shooting nothing but RAW files.

Also to anyone that brackets shots or does composites like the guy above, how do you change the exposures when getting a bunch of different shots? Is it all just with the bracketing option or is there a way to control it without touching your camera?

thanks, yea if you really want to maximize what comes out of the camera, raw definitely gives you the most latitude as far as post processing goes; it can be a bit more involved so i see why some eschew jumping in with raw editing...it is probably a good idea (definitely a memory space intensive one) to shoot raw + jpeg.to start, just to see the difference between how the camera process jpgs vs a somewhat unprocessed raw file.

as far as doing the type of composite work in the vid, not that i do anything even close to that level, but you can of course have the camera automatically do bracketing by some set interval of exposure or manually decide as long as the the camera stays in the same spot...then i'd imagine there is a lot of intensive small local editing to blend seamlessly...
 
Tried my hand in product photography on my Lunar IDs. Had a lot of issues with the background and making it look clean. Had to blur it like crazy but it looks over down. Didn't know how else to fix it but it looks fine for what it is.


lunar-3-multi-id-4e.png
 
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Sup y'all. new to the photography game, been learning how to use shutter, iso, aperture and all that for a little over 3 months. Currently using a d3200 with the kit lens. I've noticed that a lot of my shots aren't super crisp or clear as I would want them to be. When I upload them and view all of em in my laptop, the objects in focus aren't super clear like I see a lot of people in this thread.

I shoot in manual and use autofocus on my lens. Could this be because of the kit lens/camera? or is it something i'm doing. Any help would be appreciated.

What is it that you are exactly shooting? I used to have these same issues myself in terms of lacking crisp, blur, focus....Because of my work schedule I find evenings/late nights my only times to shoot often. For all night time stuff I always have a tripod with me. If I have to shoot handheld I usually use lenses with image stabilization (Im not familiar with Nikon kit lenses and whether they have IS or what the equivalent is called).

Investing in some prime lenses might help, as you may get some sharper images out of them.

Im far from an expert and only sharing my experiences.....Im new to this myself as well.
 
Tried my hand in product photography on my Lunar IDs. Had a lot of issues with the background and making it look clean. Had to blur it like crazy but it looks over down. Didn't know how else to fix it but it looks fine for what it is.


lunar-3-multi-id-4e.png

Out of curiosity, do you care to share the setup you used to stage your kicks? My sister is a huge volume seller of antiques and stuff like that on E-bay, and I was thinking of assisting her with product images for her stuff (may try to sell off some of my shoes that I am not wearing and some quality product images may help move them)....would greatly appreciate it:smokin
 
Out of curiosity, do you care to share the setup you used to stage your kicks? My sister is a huge volume seller of antiques and stuff like that on E-bay, and I was thinking of assisting her with product images for her stuff (may try to sell off some of my shoes that I am not wearing and some quality product images may help move them)....would greatly appreciate it:smokin

My setup is hardly a setup. I relied mostly on post processing but I had a grey backdrop on the ground to the wall. I had one flash behind the shoe to light up the back ground and had another flash in hand. I shot one shot with the flash to the left, the right and from above. Then I took all of it and compiled it into one photo so there wasn't any harsh shadows anywhere but below the show. I am not sure if this is the proper way to shoot product photography but I am sort of emulating how people light cars. I keep the background the same from a proper lit shot and then compile the shoe with flashes from all directions in one photo.

I just finished the other shoe. Make sure to shoot with a tripod and pretty much just light your subject in all directions with your flash. I'd imagine this would be way easier one a white board rather than a grey one. Also in post, I had to surface blur the background. I still think it's not as smooth as I would want it.

lunar-3-multi-id-5.png
 
My setup is hardly a setup. I relied mostly on post processing but I had a grey backdrop on the ground to the wall. I had one flash behind the shoe to light up the back ground and had another flash in hand. I shot one shot with the flash to the left, the right and from above. Then I took all of it and compiled it into one photo so there wasn't any harsh shadows anywhere but below the show. I am not sure if this is the proper way to shoot product photography but I am sort of emulating how people light cars. I keep the background the same from a proper lit shot and then compile the shoe with flashes from all directions in one photo.

I just finished the other shoe. Make sure to shoot with a tripod and pretty much just light your subject in all directions with your flash. I'd imagine this would be way easier one a white board rather than a grey one. Also in post, I had to surface blur the background. I still think it's not as smooth as I would want it.

lunar-3-multi-id-5.png

Man that's legit now when you said you used flash are they remote flashes?
 
^^^^Yeah.....all remote. I have the Yongnuo's that have built in receivers. So I was able to place that one in the background and have the other one in my hand. The background in both images are from one shot but the shoe is a mesh up of 4 photos. I actually didn't even highlight them super crazy.

I can't wait to try this on a car. My friend bought a new Mercedes and when she get's her rims, I am going to shoot a photo set near the Golden Gate Bridge.
 
Been using my 85mm more and more. Starting to become one of my favorite lens. Recent photographs with the lens.

One good thing about prime lens that I always liked even though you're stuck at one focal length was the ability to always think of how you're going to shoot it. When using my zoom lens, it was easier because it was versatile.













More on the blog.

IG - @dunksrnice
www.dunksrnice.net
 
Tried my hand in product photography on my Lunar IDs. Had a lot of issues with the background and making it look clean. Had to blur it like crazy but it looks over down. Didn't know how else to fix it but it looks fine for what it is.


lunar-3-multi-id-4e.png
Looks good. There's a hard line coming out under the toe though. Did you try cloning it out?
 
^^^^I don't know why. I guess I liked how it shows a depth to it showing some sort of point where the background meets. Then it would sort of look like it was floating. I don't know.....I guess it does look sort of odd. I might shoot my red Jordan 4's since I think that will contrast better with the grey later today. Get it at a different angle and see if that looks cool and take out that harsh line if it is there.
 
^^^^I don't know why. I guess I liked how it shows a depth to it showing some sort of point where the background meets. Then it would sort of look like it was floating. I don't know.....I guess it does look sort of odd. I might shoot my red Jordan 4's since I think that will contrast better with the grey later today. Get it at a different angle and see if that looks cool and take out that harsh line if it is there.
The shadow of the shoe will let people know its not floating :lol:

Its this portion I was talking about:
1000


I tried getting it out (not the smoothest):
1000
 
^^Haha...yeah...I know. You're right, it does look better. I saw that and was cloning other stuff and just thought it looked nice with just that line there. But you're right though....the shadow helps with things. I'll omit that on the other one.
 
Sup y'all. new to the photography game, been learning how to use shutter, iso, aperture and all that for a little over 3 months. Currently using a d3200 with the kit lens. I've noticed that a lot of my shots aren't super crisp or clear as I would want them to be. When I upload them and view all of em in my laptop, the objects in focus aren't super clear like I see a lot of people in this thread.

I shoot in manual and use autofocus on my lens. Could this be because of the kit lens/camera? or is it something i'm doing. Any help would be appreciated.
ok so you shoot in manual, tell me what's your shutter speed when you shoot in manual? Most likely your shutter speed is slow which will cause motion blur. Your shutter speed should be faster than your focal length which will reduce blurriness from camera shake
 
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A friend asked me to take some "house photos" for them since the semester ended and summer break is here. First time really taking portraits outside with flash. Exciting learning/using new techniques and can’t wait to mess around with it more. Any constructive criticism/pointers? Trying to get the hang of the whole portrait thing.

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http://josefabautista.tumblr.com/
 
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Tried my hand at landscape and long exposure photography today. One problem, i used a variable ND filter for the first photo and it created weird rings and vignetting. It was shot at 22mm, why is this filter giving me this issue?




vignetting is coming from using ND filter because its creeps into the field of view of the lens because it is wide angle. I don't know about the rings but i'm guessing that you're using a variable nd filter and probably a cheaper model
 
A friend asked me to take some "house photos" for them since the semester ended and summer break is here. First time really taking portraits outside with flash. Exciting learning/using new techniques and can’t wait to mess around with it more. Any constructive criticism/pointers? Trying to get the hang of the whole portrait thing.

1511741

1511742

1511743

2h7nlfd.jpg

http://josefabautista.tumblr.com/

what were your settings? you might want to look into some type of modifier to enlarge and soften your flash
 
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