The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

Originally Posted by dstylezs

Originally Posted by ksteezy

What's this photography team talk??...I'm all in!
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This
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Originally Posted by ksteezy

^^^loving the fisheye ^^^bro?

Which one you end up getting?


8mm rokinon, full 180 degree on canon crop, really outperforms its price tag. Need to test it out more and get used to the manual focus, but i couldnt be happier!
 
What advice can you give me on speedlights. Im considering Canon Speedlite 430EX II or 580EX II. Im just starting out and cant seem to get enough info from reviews to see if I need to spend the extra cash for the 580.
 
Originally Posted by goldenchild9

Nevermind did some more research and the 60D seems to blow away the 600D in most face to face reviews.
Going with the 60D.
Fellow 60D user here
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. Good choice, you won't be disappointed.
 
Picked up the Sigma Fisheye. Loving it so far. Hers's the first shot I took with it. 
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Originally Posted by SaNTi0321

Looking into buying a Wide Angle lens.
Looking at the Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 and also the Sigma 10mm 2.8 Fisheye. 

I really want a Fisheye but I think the Tokina would be more versatile. If I end up grabbing the Fisheye I can always correct the distortion on shots I don't want to be distorted.. What ya'll think? 
Never tried the Sigma 10mm, but when I tested the Tokina I fell in love with it. I wish I had the $$ for it though
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Originally Posted by ksteezy

Originally Posted by Air Freshh 23

Hey, does anyone know if sigma lens are good? I was thinkin about the 18-200mm...does anyone have that one?


Sigmas are great, built quality is superb, I think that's the best thing about them...however unless you are goin to use that lense for shootin outdoors with good available light, I would save my money and get a Tamron 28-75 2.8 for everyday use, walk around affordable lense...tamrons have good built quality as well, the cons with these 3rd party lenses is the resale value..they tend to lose value their value
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thanks bro
 
Some quick questions

If I focus on an object and I want the background to be out of focus, I should open up the aperture more right? All around sharp shot designed apperture?

Also, fast shutter speed for moving objects. Slow for still life or portraits, correct?

The thing I'm having some difficulty grasping correctly is the use of the ISO. I understand it's the sensitivity to light, but for what kind of shots would you use different ISO for?

Let's say I wanna shoot a moving car.

Prolly shoot at 500-1K apperture and depending on the light, let's say a f4 apperture

What would be the best ISO setting?

800-32k?

I'm shooting film btw.
 
Originally Posted by VoidEmperor

Some quick questions

If I focus on an object and I want the background to be out of focus, I should open up the aperture more right? All around sharp shot designed apperture?

Also, fast shutter speed for moving objects. Slow for still life or portraits, correct?

The thing I'm having some difficulty grasping correctly is the use of the ISO. I understand it's the sensitivity to light, but for what kind of shots would you use different ISO for?

Let's say I wanna shoot a moving car.

Prolly shoot at 500-1K apperture and depending on the light, let's say a f4 apperture

What would be the best ISO setting?

800-32k?

I'm shooting film btw.
1- Correct. The larger the aperture, the more bokeh (blurriness) you're gonna get. (don't forget, the smaller the number, the wider the aperture)
2- "All around sharp shot designed apperture?" ... Wut?

3- "Also, fast shutter speed for moving objects. Slow for still life or portraits, correct?" Not necessarily... Fast shutter for moving objects if you want to freeze action. You can use a slower shutter speed and pan for the same shot and get different results. For still life or portraits the faster the shutter speed the better because you want the subject to be sharp (no shaking), but then again you have to take into consideration how much light you have to play with...

4- "for what kind of shots would you use different ISO for?" If you're shooting out in daylight you can leave the ISO at the lowest. I Normally 100-400 when it's sunny out. You start to need 800+ when you start running out of light, or you're shooting indoors, etc. Basically if you're at a low shutter, wide open aperture, and you still need more light then you mess with the ISO. 

I recommend you check out "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. I read it when I first started and it helped out a lot. 
 
The only time you really need to fool around with the ISO is when you are shooting in poor lit situations and, perhaps you want to shoot a bride walking down the isle, you cant use flash and can't go any lower than a shutter of 120 and your lense is already wide-open...and still need a boost to correct the exposure, depending on your camera's censor you could go up in the 3k ISO mark and you won't notice much noise (grain, loss of detail) usually the 5dmkii is notorious fr handling high ISO very well, now if you have a camera like a rebel, anything above ISO 800 would greatly affect your image quality
 
Aahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhfdkjhjshfjkshfajhsjkfaljhkkhja!!!!!!11111!!!fkdjksfj jskldfjsdkfsj!!!


My LCD screen is cracked!!!!!1!
 
Aahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhfdkjhjshfjkshfajhsjkfaljhkkhja!!!!!!11111!!!fkdjksfj jskldfjsdkfsj!!!


My LCD screen is cracked!!!!!1!
 
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