how a suit should fit:
- biggest mistake most guys make is going big. they feel restricted and uncomfortable in a suit because they are used to wearing t-shirts and jeans. theproblem is a suit is meant to fit, if you buy it too big you will actually be making yourself uncomfortable, you'll feel bad and look worse. the arm holesfor example are meant to hug your shoulder, if it's too big your arms will be restricted.
- most importantly is the shoulders, they must align perfectly with your shoulders. the shoulders can be taken in by an expert tailor but it's usually notworth the trouble and cost.
- width, button the jacket, put a couple fingers inside where the buttons are and sort of pop it forward, on you so that you can see how much excess there is.it shouldn't come out more than like an inch max. this is a pretty easy fix by a tailor they can take the sides in (taper the suit)
- sleeve length. first you need a properly fitting shirt. once you have that make sure the jacket sleeve falls where you can show about a quarter inch of shirtcuff. one test you can do to make sure your shirt and suit sleeves are long enough. stretch your hand forward and bend your elbow so that your hand is at yourchest as if you're about to do a nazi salute, see how your sleeves ride up. it should come up a bit but you should be able to do that comfortably.
- jacket length. shorter is in but not too short either. it's really easier if you have a butt, just make sure the jacket is long enough to cover it. ifyou had proper fitting jeans the jacket would basically go to the bottom of the jean pocket.
- pants, you should know how a waist fits, be able to stick your finger in there. pants should be able to stay on fine without a belt, but shouldnt be tootight either. good quality pants come with extra fabric so they can be let out. same goes for the seat (butt area). the pants should follow your silhouette butthere shouldn't be any pulling, it should be nice and smooth.
- pant length, a little subjective here, some people like it wide and long with a lot of break others like it short and narrow (which is more in fashion).either way just make sure your pants are flapping around (too short) or bunched up (too long) when you are standing still there should be one slight tomoderate break at the shoe. forget that nonsense about the back of the pant reaching the floor or even the heel of the shoe, mine are about 2 cm away fromshowing sock (but they are also well tapered).
style:
what's in style now, but also timelessly classic is as follows:
2 button, with a moderately high stance (the buttons are higher up on the jacket than before) but not too high
notch lapel for business (as opposed to peak which is very hip/fashion forward, also used on tuxes and double breasted)
pants plain front (no pleats) with a 2" cuff, or no cuff if you really don't like it. if you are stuck on pleats for some reason your pants must havea cuff, 1 and 3/4" the minimum, 2" preferred.
construction:
fused- cheapest, the jacket is glued together like your nike shoes. your suit will look good the day you bought it and then get progressively worse. when youdry clean it the ironing may cause the glue to bubble and cause noticeable wrinkling. your typical Banana Republic suit, Hugo Boss and even some $2000 Armanisuits are fused. if you buy one of these it better be because you will wear it twice a year for emergencies or because it's a suit that will go out offashion by next year (which is what happens with most Hugo Boss/Armani suits).
semi-canvas- some parts are fused to save money but the important parts and usual trouble spots are sewed with a canvas piece.
full canvas- no glue at all. the jacket is sewn together with a full canvas piece. your suit looks great the first day and holds up over time, you can giveheavy wear to the suit for 10 years and the fabric will break down before the suit does. Full canvas suits start at maybe 700$ if you're lucky but average1000$. well worth the investment.
what am I forgetting?
this will give you a good idea: