OP i hope this helps
Parvovirus Treatment
Well, suppose you don’t have Tamiflu, either onhand or available from your vet. Suppose that you ignored all my good advice here and didn’t prepare yourself in advance. And now you have a pup that looks sick and you just know that it’s parvo. If you have confirmed that your puppy has one (or more) of these diseases (parvo, corona, coccidia, or giardia), you should immediately bring your pup indoors—and I would recommend that it be the bathroom or the kitchen, as most likely the floors will be tiled or made of linoleum—and, since your puppy will be vomiting and defecating profusely, you want to be able to clean it quickly and completely. Yes, it will be smelly and disgusting, but the smell will go away—death, however, will not—so clarify your values. If your puppy has parvo, and you leave it outside, especially at night when it cools down, I assure you it will die, so bring it indoors immediately and into an appropriate location. Anyway, once you’ve found the appropriate spot in the house in which to keep the pup, make sure that the temperature is comfortable: not too cool nor too warm, comfortable. It is then imperative that you obtain the following supplies (and good breeders will make sure they have these items in advance):
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• At least four (4) 1000 ml Bags of Saline Solution or Lactated Ringers (IV fluids) plus the catheter set ups and needles. You will not be running these fluids IV, but SC (under the skin). a) Ask your vet to provide you with the ringers. If your vet will not, he is a money-grubber, and I would advise you to go to another vet. In fact, I would clearly establish with your vet whether or not he or she would provide you with such supplies before it ever becomes necessary. Don’t wait until there is a life-threatening emergency before you find out that your vet won’t help you. When you first get your pup ask your vet straight-up “If my dog ever caught parvo, and I couldn’t afford the treatment, would you supply me with fluids?” If your vet says no, find a new vet. If he will get you the ringers, try to keep a supply on hand before such an emergency. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. b) If you are in an emergency situation, or if you can’t find a vet who will say “Yes” to the above question, ask yourself if you know anyone in the nursing or medical profession, either as suppliers or as administrators. Try to get the fluids in this way. But you need to get the fluids.
• The next step is to get 4 Bottles of Pedialyte. You can obtain this at any supermarket or drugstore. Pedialyte is a fluid/electrolyte replacement drink for babies who have had chronic diarrhea and vomiting, and it is absolutely essential to the recovery of your pup. (Pedialyte is not as critical if you have the saline/ringers, above, but it still is good to have even with them.)
• Get a bottle of Immodium AD, or any other anti-diarrhea medication.
• Get an anti-nausea medication (Reglan or Cerenia).
• Get a bottle of injectable Penicillin.
• Get a 20 ml syringe. Always have these on hand.
• Get at least 20 16-gauge needles ¾ to 1” long. Always have these on hand.
• Buy some cotton balls (or gauze pads).
• Buy a bottle of Betadine, or some other topical disinfectant.
• Buy some Nutri-Cal, or some other calorie-replacement supplement.
• Buy some white rice.
• Buy (or make) some chicken broth.
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How to Use This Stuff:
Immediately weigh your dog and determine how much fluids he needs. You can do this by remembering this BASIC RULE: all animals need approximately 30 ml of fluid per 1 lb of bodyweight, per day. Therefore, a 5-lb pup needs 150 ml of fluid (5-lb x 30 ml) per day; a 10-lb pup needs 300 ml of fluid per day, a 20-lb pup needs about 600 ml of fluids per day, etc. After you determine what amount of fluids your pup needs for the whole day, then divide this number by ½ and give the ½-dose twice daily, every 12 hours. For example, if a 5-lb pup needs 150 ml a day, then give him 75 ml of fluid under the skin at 7:00am and give him another 75 ml SC (under the skin) at 7:00pm. Before you give each dose, make sure the ringers are body temperature. You do not want either to chill, or to overheat, your pup. Remember: body temperature. Make sure you have installed the tubing to the bag of fluids properly, and that all of the air bubbles have been washed out . Give it a test to see if it works. When you’re sure it does, use a cotton ball and some Betadine to cleanse the puppy’s skin, and then insert the needle you’ve placed at the end of the catheter tube under the puppy’s skin.
There are two key injection points to administer your puppy’s SC fluids from: (1) under the skin to one side of the neck (can be either side), and (2) under the skin to one side of his kidneys (can be either side also). You just pull the skin out, aim the needle straight down into (and just under) the skin parallel to the puppy’s neck/side, without actually touching any meat. Insert the needle and administrate the fluids. For the next administration, you simply alternate from Point 1 to Point 2, and alternate sides of the dog used as well.
Dogs are a mans best friend. **** cats.
