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Update on the Rebuilt title ...

I guess it was a right passenger collision with multiple airbags deploying

THe vehicle is a 2012 Odyssey Touring Elite asking 15k.
No pictures of the wreck I'm assuming? Like I said earlier, it's going to be a risk no matter what. Make sure it is a calculated one, and get the van inspected before making a decision on it. Is there a dollar amount on the collision damage? That might help give an idea of just how severe the crash was. If ANYTHING doesn't sit right with the van, or the seller seems fishy, I would walk away. I remember you saying its your brother that is buying it, and he'd drive it into the ground, so resale isn't an issue, but safety IS.
 
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Update on the Rebuilt title ...

I guess it was a right passenger collision with multiple airbags deploying. They had to change the qtr panel and the sliding door. Plus fix the airbags.

THe vehicle is a 2012 Odyssey Touring Elite asking 15k.
I wouldn't do it, especially in a vehicle I'm assuming will carry a bunch of kids around.

2017 Odyssey will be a new generation, so once it releases later this year the value of the 2011-2016 Odysseys will drop. I've got a 2013 TE that I'm planning on trading in for the next generation. I'd rather get a high mileage intact model than one that was rebuilt.
 
Trust me when I tell you this, bro. Any slight difference in any of the tires and you can seriously mess your diffs up.

At a certain loss of tire pressure, my cluster goes blank and all sorts of warning lights pop up as well as an "AWD" blinking light pops up and it doesn't let me use my DCCD at all bro. It's happened to me.

Subaru's symmetrical AWD is not just any regular AWD system. I don't say this to sound snobby, but it is truly very sensitive and at the top of its class. One tire goes, I would NEED to change all 4 tires, no question about it. I mean, I don't need to do anything, like change my oil. You get my point.

Putting just 1 brand new or unknown used tire onto your tires you've used since it had 0 miles can severely **** up very important components of your drivetrain. Yes the diffs are strong, but this type of stress on them is similar to redlining at cold start in negative degree weather. A bit extreme, but not really at the same time, I'm also just trying to get my point across.

I immediately pulled over and read my manual to know wth is going on. I think I had 4-5 psi above what the rest of my tires had on one I recently added air to them once the temperature dropped. Something so small can save you a huge headache. Pay attention to your tire pressure and don't just throw any tires on your car. The car will notify you, just hopefully you don't ignore it or drive enough to cause permanent damage. People have mentioned shaving a tire to match your other 3 tires' wear in order to not mess anything up, but that's still risky.

To all subie owners, if one tire goes and you've had them one for somewhat decent amount of time. Just do the right thing and change them all. This is why constant rotations and reducing your rotation intervals is very beneficial to the health of certain components of your drivetrain.

The suggestions is really good, it just sucks that I can't do it or I would be on Craigslist right now searching for dirt cheap 275's and 285's
Fair enough, I'm no expert in Subaru or their AWD systems. But I do know that there MUST be some tolerances built in, because when you're turning, all 4 tires MUST turn at different speeds, both side to side, and front to back, this is simple physics. Wheels turning at different speeds is what also would happen by running 2 different sized tires. So there must be some tolerances built into this system for that simple fact. How small the tolerances ARE, I guess would be the million dollar question. Perhaps it's quite small. I definitely get not wanting to take a chance :smokin
 
 
I wouldn't do it, especially in a vehicle I'm assuming will carry a bunch of kids around.

2017 Odyssey will be a new generation, so once it releases later this year the value of the 2011-2016 Odysseys will drop. I've got a 2013 TE that I'm planning on trading in for the next generation. I'd rather get a high mileage intact model than one that was rebuilt.
Talking about the 17 - they confirmed they changing the body style? What you think is going to look like? 
 
That's a 245 on a 10" wheel.

Yea, that's a pretty significant stretch b
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Definitely risk harming your wheels.
Yeah thats a little much 
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My Works are:

19x9.5

19x11

I plan on running a 245/35 up front and a 275/30 out back, they will have a slight stretch but nothing major.
 
It's not quite simple, please don't dismiss it as "simple physics". A Simple Physics explanation would be that the diffs fail at different forms of stress. In this case, the rate at which the wheels spin is not one of them, nor are they the main culprits behind it.

The car is equipped with torque vectoring, which sends more or less power to different wheels in different situations in order to optimize cornering and handling. Even if you lock the center diff, which implies a 50/50 power distribution and forces all wheels to have the same rotational speed, you will still have different speeds if your road conditions are constantly varying.

Whatever type of stress the worn, smaller diameter, different, etc. specific tire or tires it puts on the diffs is what will cause it to fail. What that specific type of stress is I have not a clue.

But if I were given the type and amount of stress put on these mechanical components as well as the dimensions of all the components associated with the failure, along with the location of the stress and failure; I will be able to demonstrate a diagram depicting exactly how the failure was caused and calculate at what specific load the stress reached when it caused whatever component to fail.

Will this be easy? Heck no. This is Fundamental physics or engineering (statics, strength of materials, mechanics, general physics, calculus, thermodynamics if temperature and heat was involved said the failure(s), etc.) Will this be even possible? Yes, if one was able to accurately gather all of that data. Is that impossible? Yes, if one did not purposely perform said stresses in a closed, data-gathering-able environment.

Is that impossible? Probably not, but you will never be able to properly collect that data on just a regular day this occurred, taking into account all live and dead loads that were present when it occurred. This is the only reason it will be impossible to know EXACTLY how and why it failed. But you can get the gist of it performing tests in a closed environment while mimicking all the conditions that might have been present at the time.

But yea, it's really far from simple. The concept and theory is simple to talk about. But properly determining what actually happened is as much far from easy or simple as the actual physics behind this really is.

Forced induction can be explained in a sentence is what I'm getting at. Is it simple physics? No, absolutely no physics-related concepts will be as simple as just being able to read about it.

This isn't a shot at you at all, I've just read that on here (these forums not just this thread) way too many times. Sorry about the educated rant, it just really makes me cring when I read something much more complex than what it seems to be, being labeled as "simple physics". Tell the engineers who spent however many years designing the current system that, and I will guarantee you they will feel insulted.
I just meant that the front wheels and back wheels don't take the same paths, if you mapped out the paths, it would take simple physics (or really no physics at all) to see that the paths they take are different. The difference in wheel paths aren't very complicated, no need to cringe fam :tongue:

That was educational though, thanks :smokin
 
No, like I said it was no shots at you all, brother.

But if I'm understanding you correctly. The reason for locking my center diffs is for them to do exactly just that. I will never lock my center diff unless I'm in heavy snow or rain. This can also cause a lot of damage if you lock on dry pavement and drive and corner for a certain time period. How long? I have not a clue, I just know it depends on a few things.

If you're talking about something else, then disregard this :lol:
Naw we're talking about the same thing.... I think :lol: . I always welcome learning knowledge, I kinda like techy stuff :lol:
 
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Dang, I'm like trying to do the opposite, which is starting to be a headache
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You're trying to fit 275s up front? Thats what the E9X guys are running up front with 9-10in at around 25-30 offsets. I don't think you can fit 275s up front personally without flares.

What are the stock tire sizes?
 
What an amazing save by the driver here. I don't think I have quick enough reflexes to save it the second time he loses traction and almost hits the wall :wow:



Dude still runs a 12.7 even after almost crashing twice too :lol:
 
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Don't do it man, they're gonna be stretched to ****, and stretched tires won't look good on a Mustang. Just save and buy the right tires for it.

If you can't find a particular size setup on the internet easily, chances are there's a reason people aren't running it.
Yeah thanks won't do it. I'm just gonna buy tires. I think I'm going 285/35
 
Definitely will consider coils in the near future but I'm currently running 265/35/18 on 18x9.5 +35 on just springs. Would be interested to see dat meat
 
Found some answers.

Looks like I'm going with 285/35/18 then I'll probably have to slightly roll my fenders but I'll be able to get a nice drop.

Possibly run 5mm spacers as well. Man, the meat on those wheels and grip on those (just right) wide PSS' and the fact that's it's going on an STi is going to be so :x :x :x :x (in the best way possible)

Watch dudes start swagger jacking if I'm able to make it work :smh:

If someone has good links or contact info on vendors who sell quality wheels feel free to PM me. Looking for nothing but brand new. Hopefully they have what I'm looking for, although I'm sure if they're reputable they should have it.
Should look nice, gonna be a lot of tire under there :smokin

What made you choose the Michelin's over the Nitto's? I like the tread pattern of the NT05's better than the Pilot Super Sports, but I've seen a lot of people say the PSS' handle just as good, and get much better tread life, so the choice makes sense to me.
 
Basically the life and performance was superior to the NT-05 and they don't go for much more $/tire.

I'm actually thinking about sticking to 275's now after talking to some more people :lol:
I think I'll be limited in ride height with the 285's and might need too much rolling and probably actually pulling in order for them to work.

I rather roll in order to make them sit lower on 275 meats than do all of that work just to make 285s not rub know what I mean? I'm wayy more limited with what I can do, on 285's. And after looking at some pictures, 285/35 is a lot of ******* tire :rofl:

I think 275's will go just fine.
Yea that's what I figured. The NT05s look awesome, and apparently perform great out of the box, but the performance quickly decreases, and they wear out extremely fast since the tread pattern starts out quite thin already, and they're soft. It's why I chose the 555s over the NT05s too.

I definitely know what you mean, I'd do the same thing. It would be cool to say you're one of only a few people (maybe even the only one) to be rollin around on 285s in a new STi, but i don't think it would be worth the potential headache to try and make them fit. You seem to drive it a lot, so not having to worry about rubbing during everyday driving is a nice thing. With the 275s you'll be able to go lower, have less headaches, and a 275 tire is still really wide. Seems like a win win to me.
 
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Speaking of tires..

Anyone ever install a tire to a rim?

It's a pain in the ***.

I remember in shop class we had a test if we could do it . **** got real for some of us in there

Hear some mechanics make cake doing that professionally.
 
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