\\ Post Your Car vol. Been a minute //

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Big body :pimp:
 
Purchased a few suspension parts for my car. KWv3's just weren't cutting it, even the custom re-valved with custom spring rates to improve the original KWV3, that a company custom valves and alters KW's for a few cars wasn't cutting it.

This will do.

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Also purchased a few more suspension parts, anti lift kit, roll
Center, bushings, etc. This Australian-based company is currently the best on the market for certain cars. Lifetime warranty on all or most of their products.
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Got some wheels I have to mount too, about 7 weeks to get here from Japan, but my lug nuts took about 10 weeks :lol:

Volk's highest weight-to-strength ratio wheel to date. Only .4 lbs heavier than TE37 SL's and 1lb heavier than CE28's. But significantly stronger due to its design and material used. This 18x10 wheel weighs in at about 19.2lbs.

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I'll be uncovering the wheels as soon as my new lens for my camera gets here.

Lug nuts:

Summer: Amuse Titanium open-ended lug nuts weighing at about 25g per nut. So 1 whole pound for 20 lug nuts.

Winter: Project Kics Open-Ended Chromoly Steel435 R40 Iconix lug nuts

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What kind of car is all this going on?

I love my Clubsports, probably the best ride and handle Ive ever had on a vehicle and Ive had a few brands on my cars over the years.
 
Is anyone into audio here? I found it disturbing driving with my stock system for quite some time, just never got into it.

This is what about a little over $7k gets you if you include wiring(speaker wire and 0 gauge OFC for the "Big 3" and wiring your amps, harnesses, fuse boxes, etc)

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My front 2-way component speakers alone retail for $1,300. The rear coaxials for about $850.

Pics of the install and some close-ups.
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JL Audio HD1200/1, JL Audio XD400/4 V2

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JL Audio dual 10W6v3's

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Progress of the ported box for both subs, tuned to about 27Hz. Ported enclosure with 44-inch ports for each sub.


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Finished product on the subs. Custom quick-release feature on the box that allows me to easily remove it with easily accessible terminals. All connections were heat shrunk and cleanly installed, all doors and trunk were slightly deadened (inner and outer skin) to increase the quality of acoustics.


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Detailed pictures of my Focal KRX2's and Focal KRC's


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Tiny secondary battery installed in order to properly supply power to everything without compromising the stock car's output.
 
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What kind of car is all this going on?

I love my Clubsports, probably the best ride and handle Ive ever had on a vehicle and Ive had a few brands on my cars over the years.

Yea I did about 2-3 months of research and undecided with either KWV3's. Well, I'll actually purchase the RCE Tarmac 2's which are re-valved V3's with custom spring rates. So they're actually a lot better than just off-the-shelf KWV3's. So it was either Tarmac 2's or Öhlins, since I would never consider just regular V3's. Öhlins proved time and time again that their R&D and so many positive reviews, build quality, aesthetics (although this shouldn't even matter, but these coilovers are just gorgeous), etc. just surpassed KW's

And this is with a rather odd spring rate for my car 9k/7k.
 
Oh and **** Whiteline suspension!

They're actually now based off Taiwan and their products have had numerous complaints. I'm actually running a 24MM whiteline rear sway bar with kartboy endlinks. No corrosion or damage yet, but I may be just switching over to Superpro. Currently running a 26MM Superpro front swaybar set at 25.5MM. Superpro actually determines the bar's diameter prior to coating so it's actually closer to a 27MM bar if you were to use the method Whiteline uses to measure their bars, which is why I want the rear Australian bar as well.

I also originally purchased Cusco rear LCA's, and got a heads-up by a very reputable suspensions shop that they tend to seize after exposure to some harsh conditions. So once again, went with Superpro and their lifetime warranty. But I can't lie, the Cusco's just look so much better. My car is going to be noisy as **** once all these bushing and suspension components are installed, with the significant increased NVH.

Game plan is to install Ohlins and rear arms first, let the coils settle, install EVERYTHING at once including tires and get an alignment that same day, as these parts and bushing alter Caster (Which is a very good things), camber and toe. So I need them perfectly dialed in.
 
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Is anyone into audio here? I found it disturbing driving with my stock system for quite some time, just never got into it.

This is what about a little over $7k gets you if you include wiring(speaker wire and 0 gauge OFC for the "Big 3" and wiring your amps, harnesses, fuse boxes, etc)

My front 2-way component speakers alone retail for $1,300. The rear coaxials for about $850.

Pics of the install and some close-ups.
1400


JL Audio HD1200/1, JL Audio XD400/4 V2

JL Audio dual 10W6v3's

Progress of the ported box for both subs, tuned to about 27Hz. Ported enclosure with 44-inch ports for each sub.


Finished product on the subs. Custom quick-release feature on the box that allows me to easily remove it with easily accessible terminals. All connections were heat shrunk and cleanly installed, all doors and trunk were slightly deadened (inner and outer skin) to increase the quality of acoustics.

Detailed pictures of my Focal KRX2's and Focal KRC's

Tiny secondary battery installed in order to properly supply power to everything without compromising the stock car's output.

Nice work!

I recently installed a complete Hybrid Audio Legatita install, Arc Audio Amp and a Stereo Integrity sub.

Are you using a DSP?
 
And I thought wcis was putting a lot of money into his car :lol:
We still don't know what kind of car all this is going into

Just picture a car that handles like it's on rails straight out of the factory, then with about $6k in suspension mods.
 
Nice work!

I recently installed a complete Hybrid Audio Legatita install, Arc Audio Amp and a Stereo Integrity sub.

Are you using a DSP?

My Head Unit retails for about $1,200 and has a a lot of features to tune your equipment. This is my first time getting into audio but I did mention it to my builder along with an EQ, but he mentioned the DSP would hardly make a difference due to the quality of speakers, amps, wiring and head unit I'm running. If need be, I'll definitely want to consider it when I install my mids, since the focal KRX2 is a 2-way component system missing a mid. So I'll probably throw a Rockford 50Wx2 amp with a 3" Mid and custom mount my tweeter to the kick where you can barely see it. Tune it again and take it from there. This is what I'm currently running.

Dual JL audio 10W6v3's
Focal 165KRX2 fronts
Focal KRC rears
Pioneer AVIC 8100-NEX Head Unit
JL Audio HD1200/1 Amplifier
JL Audio XD400/4v2 Amplifier
Kicker PKD1 amp kit
Upgrades XS power D1200 Main Battery
XS power 750ck secondary battery
80 ft. of T-spec speaker wire, fuse boxes, harnesses for Apple CarPlay/back-up camera to head unit integration/stock USB compatibility
Maestro software for stock steering wheel controls
15 ft. of 0Gauge with 5,100+strands of OFC for the front "Big 3"
Custom ported box for my subs, 44-inch ports for each sub and has a quick-release feature to slide out.
 
Used to be heavy into car audio in high school but I don't care much for it anymore. As long as the stock system is decent, I'm more than happy
 
Actually guessed it was him after seeing the prices being told..

That's crazy the kwv3's weren't cutting it. You must really be competitive and into autoX and tracking
 
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My Head Unit retails for about $1,200 and has a a lot of features to tune your equipment. This is my first time getting into audio but I did mention it to my builder along with an EQ, but he mentioned the DSP would hardly make a difference due to the quality of speakers, amps, wiring and head unit I'm running. If need be, I'll definitely want to consider it when I install my mids, since the focal KRX2 is a 2-way component system missing a mid. So I'll probably throw a Rockford 50Wx2 amp with a 3" Mid and custom mount my tweeter to the kick where you can barely see it. Tune it again and take it from there. This is what I'm currently running.

Dual JL audio 10W6v3's
Focal 165KRX2 fronts
Focal KRC rears
Pioneer AVIC 8100-NEX Head Unit
JL Audio HD1200/1 Amplifier
JL Audio XD400/4v2 Amplifier
Kicker PKD1 amp kit
Upgrades XS power D1200 Main Battery
XS power 750ck secondary battery
80 ft. of T-spec speaker wire, fuse boxes, harnesses for Apple CarPlay/back-up camera to head unit integration/stock USB compatibility
Maestro software for stock steering wheel controls
15 ft. of 0Gauge with 5,100+strands of OFC for the front "Big 3"
Custom ported box for my subs, 44-inch ports for each sub and has a quick-release feature to slide out.

Regardless of how good your equipment is, a DSP is highly recommended and would make a substantial difference.

Your head unit may be good enough to set crossover points, and if it has at least at 31 band EQ, you should be ok.

Big advantage of the DSP is the ability to time align and set levels to individual speaker which would allow you to focus your sound stage corerctly.
 
Regardless of how good your equipment is, a DSP is highly recommended and would make a substantial difference.

Your head unit may be good enough to set crossover points, and if it has at least at 31 band EQ, you should be ok.

Big advantage of the DSP is the ability to time align and set levels to individual speaker which would allow you to focus your sound stage corerctly.

Yep time alignment was all calibrated according to the speaker locations via my head unit which has a time Aligment setting as well. Speaker orientation, levels, surround sound, I mean the settings go on and on. And I can use google maps on it as well as text through it and watch Netflix haha.

A certain DSP would probably make a barely noticeable difference, but it may make a huge difference in older or different head units and audio equipment (Say a stock sound system with a DSP will make a HUGE difference). The AVIC 8100NEX pretty much covers it. I'm almost certain if I purchase one it would be redundant, as both my coaxial and component speakers come with crossovers which are adjusted via the head unit.

I definitely don't see it hurting, but a little more on the unnecessary side. Either way, when I install my mids I'll inquire about it some more but I'm almost certain it will be unecessary and a waste. Maybe if you're DJing and have multiple speakers and multiple boxes that need to be properly calibrated.

But for car audio, the quality of your speakers, subs, wire, amps, proper sound deadening(which most people overlook and is actually one of the most crucial parts of car audio), and the INSTALL (most important) are one of the main factors. If you have a top notch head unit everything can be tuned through that.
 
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Actually guessed it was him after seeing the prices being told..

That's crazy the kwv3's weren't cutting it. You must really be competitive and into autoX and tracking

I definitely want to get more seat time in autoX or time-attack. Nothing more than for personal confidence in my driving abilities. If I were to compete in anything it wouldn't be in any of those fields.
 
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