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That 12mm is a great landscape lens, killer for astrophotography too. We're in the midst of Milky Way season, put it to good use!
Here's a few shots I got in Yosemite with that lens a while back
The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3
- Thread in 'General' Thread starter Started by rap sizzle,
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Here's a few shots I got in Yosemite with that lens a while back
Y4BBZY
formerly jyabbz
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What are people's thoughts on the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f/2.8 for landscapes and general ultra-wide option. Mainly interested on it is because of the price and it is the cheapest ultra-wide available, fast aperture, ability to use it for both my Canon and Sony cameras using an adapter. Main gripes I have: quality control issues (decentering, inaccurate distance scale, and inability to focus to infinity), manual focus, inability to use filters.
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Only issue wuthering that is I'm still met with the problem of quickly getting pics from my camera to my devices. It would streamline my flow to have my pics ready to be viewed or edited with moments of capturing them.
Next glass is likely gonna be the Tokino 105mm
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That 12mm is a great landscape lens, killer for astrophotography too. We're in the midst of Milky Way season, put it to good use!
Damn...this one is great. I plan on going out there this summer for some photos. I am going to see if I can be patient and stack a good photo and get one super clear shot. I shot this same area and the noise level is just bonkers on my Mark 3. It's sort of a necessary evil to shoot with hi ISO but I am going to try and shoot it mid day and see if I can post up for hours and shoot clear till night........for one photo.
That 12mm is a great landscape lens, killer for astrophotography too. We're in the midst of Milky Way season, put it to good use!
Here's a few shots I got in Yosemite with that lens a while back
How do you do this? I'm having trouble taking pics at night.
What do I need to do?
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^^^^^It's really the post processing that makes those photos look the way they are. Just shoot like a 30 sec (no longer since there will be motion blur) shot with aperture wide open in complete darkness on a high ISO. I use about 3200 or so. Make sure your lens is focused at infinitie if you have a wide angle. Also make sure to shoot RAW files too and if you get a good clear shot, you can edit it the colors and the look to show the milky way more. The overall photo will be noisy but it's kind of a necessary evil. You can stack photos to smooth out the pixels a bit but it's a really long process and you have to shoot tons of photos and even compensate the earth rotating.
Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.
Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.
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Eager to see your transition. I too have only owned the D3200 for the past 2 years and am wanting to upgrade to either the D750 or mirror-less for my upcoming trip to Italy.
^^^^^It's really the post processing that makes those photos look the way they are. Just shoot like a 30 sec (no longer since there will be motion blur) shot with aperture wide open in complete darkness on a high ISO. I use about 3200 or so. Make sure your lens is focused at infinitie if you have a wide angle. Also make sure to shoot RAW files too and if you get a good clear shot, you can edit it the colors and the look to show the milky way more. The overall photo will be noisy but it's kind of a necessary evil. You can stack photos to smooth out the pixels a bit but it's a really long process and you have to shoot tons of photos and even compensate the earth rotating.
Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.
Thank you!
I shoot with T5i and just copped a Tokina 14-20 F2 lens.
Used to shoot with a Sigma but focusing was difficult.
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^
Focusing is one of the harder parts of shooting astro. Put it in manual focus, use the back screen to focus and zoom in on the focal point if your camera supports it. Pick a bright star and adjust your focus until it's as small as possible.
Also keep in mind the rule of 500 to get sharp shots. You don't want your shutter speed to exceed 500 / 35mm equiv. focal length, i.e. if you're shooting with a 12mm lens on a crop sensor, 500/18 = ~28 seconds max exposure to keep things sharp. If you go too long you'll get a little bit of star movement. Shoot wide open at whatever exposure time you calculate, then play around with your ISO until the exposure looks right.
Focusing is one of the harder parts of shooting astro. Put it in manual focus, use the back screen to focus and zoom in on the focal point if your camera supports it. Pick a bright star and adjust your focus until it's as small as possible.
Also keep in mind the rule of 500 to get sharp shots. You don't want your shutter speed to exceed 500 / 35mm equiv. focal length, i.e. if you're shooting with a 12mm lens on a crop sensor, 500/18 = ~28 seconds max exposure to keep things sharp. If you go too long you'll get a little bit of star movement. Shoot wide open at whatever exposure time you calculate, then play around with your ISO until the exposure looks right.
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I shoot cars. Peep my ig/flickr for more but as far as pointers go just go out and shoot. I follow Patrick and his work is really good, but I don't have all the equipment he does such as strobes and lights. Everyone has their own style so just go out and develop your own.
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messing w/ my 135
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Bored ... Looking at some Paris pics.
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Hit some dirt roads today
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Few hundred from finally getting my camera. I can't wait man.
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^^^^^It's really the post processing that makes those photos look the way they are. Just shoot like a 30 sec (no longer since there will be motion blur) shot with aperture wide open in complete darkness on a high ISO. I use about 3200 or so. Make sure your lens is focused at infinitie if you have a wide angle. Also make sure to shoot RAW files too and if you get a good clear shot, you can edit it the colors and the look to show the milky way more. The overall photo will be noisy but it's kind of a necessary evil. You can stack photos to smooth out the pixels a bit but it's a really long process and you have to shoot tons of photos and even compensate the earth rotating.
Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.
I'm heading to Joshua Tree later tonight. Hopefully get some good stuff.
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I'm trying to figure out what this does that a computer doesn't. Seems like a waste of money to me, but then again, I'm a bit old school.
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It allows you to get photos from a memory card to your device anywhere. Instead of taking the memory card and putting it into your laptop to edit or share put the card in the Gnarbox and connect any device to it to retrieve the images.
I shoot away from my laptop mostly so being able to go from camera to tablet/phone to view and edit pics would be great for me
I shoot away from my laptop mostly so being able to go from camera to tablet/phone to view and edit pics would be great for me
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I shoot RAW & gotta have my full lightroom and photoshop experience.
I dont have time to wait on all that cool looking tech.
Although i've been having fun w/ the 5d mark 4 being able to use the wifi thing on my phone to shoot some fun self portraits
I dont have time to wait on all that cool looking tech.
Although i've been having fun w/ the 5d mark 4 being able to use the wifi thing on my phone to shoot some fun self portraits
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Admittedly I didn't really look at the features of the Gnarbox but couldn't you buy something like this for ≈1/8th the price? Then put the money you saved towards your SSD/HDD of choice.
Edit: Reading some Amazon reviews, it seems more than adequate for file transfer/backup.
"TL;DR : This small cheap device plus a phone or tablet will allow you to transfer files between an SD card, a hard drive, and your phone/tablet in pretty much any way you desire, all while completely off-grid. Just don't expect to use it to screen dailies to a producer via internal WiFi streaming from your USB storage. As a means of replacing a computer for nothing more than file transfer when weight savings are a priority, look no further.
*UPDATE: Using the FileHub to transfer RAW files to my phone I have been able to successfully open and edit them in Lightroom Mobile, even with finicky Panasonic .RW2 files. I have not yet found a way to edit the .MOV clips on my phone, but I'm not sure my iPhone could handle 4k editing anyway, so that's fine for what I am trying to do."
Edit: Reading some Amazon reviews, it seems more than adequate for file transfer/backup.
"TL;DR : This small cheap device plus a phone or tablet will allow you to transfer files between an SD card, a hard drive, and your phone/tablet in pretty much any way you desire, all while completely off-grid. Just don't expect to use it to screen dailies to a producer via internal WiFi streaming from your USB storage. As a means of replacing a computer for nothing more than file transfer when weight savings are a priority, look no further.
*UPDATE: Using the FileHub to transfer RAW files to my phone I have been able to successfully open and edit them in Lightroom Mobile, even with finicky Panasonic .RW2 files. I have not yet found a way to edit the .MOV clips on my phone, but I'm not sure my iPhone could handle 4k editing anyway, so that's fine for what I am trying to do."
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Went to a Yankee game last night with a few friends. Since I knew I would be drinking, and wasn't sure of the stadiums policy with cameras (I've asked numerous people, and have heard mixed things)......i took an old P&S I haven't used in years with me. They came out ok I suppose.
#nyc #newyorkcity #yankees #baseball by Michael Rios, on Flickr
#nyc #newyorkcity #yankees #baseball by Michael Rios, on Flickr
#nyc #newyorkcity #yankees #baseball by Michael Rios, on Flickr
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For that Gnarbox why doesnt one just get an SD card converter and put the pics straight to your phone?
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Yo......I just came back from Samys and played with the Sony A9. WOW. That thing is a monster. The demo camera II had had the battery grip and the fast card and that thing performs so good. Even the eye tracking is impressive as I have never shot with anything like it. It's a very tempting camera and they even said with the Sigma adaptor, Canon lenses pair quite well. I am still going to wait on the Sony AR73 though cause of the megapixels but if anyone is looking to get a sports camera, the A9 is totally recommend in my book.
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