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The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3 - Page 932

post #27931 of 27938
^^^^^It's really the post processing that makes those photos look the way they are. Just shoot like a 30 sec (no longer since there will be motion blur) shot with aperture wide open in complete darkness on a high ISO. I use about 3200 or so. Make sure your lens is focused at infinitie if you have a wide angle. Also make sure to shoot RAW files too and if you get a good clear shot, you can edit it the colors and the look to show the milky way more. The overall photo will be noisy but it's kind of a necessary evil. You can stack photos to smooth out the pixels a bit but it's a really long process and you have to shoot tons of photos and even compensate the earth rotating.


Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.

milkywaylightroomfeat.jpg
- Fong$tarr

Member since: January 26, 2003
Fongstarr.com | Fatlace | The Hundreds  |  Instagram:@Fongstarr  |  Flickr
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- Fong$tarr

Member since: January 26, 2003
Fongstarr.com | Fatlace | The Hundreds  |  Instagram:@Fongstarr  |  Flickr
Reply
post #27932 of 27938
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkballer5 View Post

Picked up a Sony a6000 and Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 to be my main travel/landscape camera. Coming from a Nikon D3200, I'm eager to learn it and put it to work!

Eager to see your transition. I too have only owned the D3200 for the past 2 years and am wanting to upgrade to either the D750 or mirror-less for my upcoming trip to Italy.
post #27933 of 27938
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Fongstarr View Post

^^^^^It's really the post processing that makes those photos look the way they are. Just shoot like a 30 sec (no longer since there will be motion blur) shot with aperture wide open in complete darkness on a high ISO. I use about 3200 or so. Make sure your lens is focused at infinitie if you have a wide angle. Also make sure to shoot RAW files too and if you get a good clear shot, you can edit it the colors and the look to show the milky way more. The overall photo will be noisy but it's kind of a necessary evil. You can stack photos to smooth out the pixels a bit but it's a really long process and you have to shoot tons of photos and even compensate the earth rotating.


Below is usually how a before photo looks like. After post, it looks way different.

milkywaylightroomfeat.jpg

Thank you!

I shoot with T5i and just copped a Tokina 14-20 F2 lens.

Used to shoot with a Sigma but focusing was difficult.
post #27934 of 27938

^

Focusing is one of the harder parts of shooting astro. Put it in manual focus, use the back screen to focus and zoom in on the focal point if your camera supports it. Pick a bright star and adjust your focus until it's as small as possible.

 

Also keep in mind the rule of 500 to get sharp shots. You don't want your shutter speed to exceed 500 / 35mm equiv. focal length, i.e. if you're shooting with a 12mm lens on a crop sensor, 500/18 = ~28 seconds max exposure to keep things sharp. If you go too long you'll get a little bit of star movement. Shoot wide open at whatever exposure time you calculate, then play around with your ISO until the exposure looks right.

post #27935 of 27938
Repped! Thanks you guys!
post #27936 of 27938
Quote:
Originally Posted by justincrediblee View Post

Any of you shoot automotive photography? Slowly getting into modding my car so I'm guessing I'll be picking up on it more. Could use some pointers. Also, does quickster still post in here? Anyone still follow the guy's work? He always killed it when it came to magazine spread style shoots.

I shoot cars. Peep my ig/flickr for more but as far as pointers go just go out and shoot. I follow Patrick and his work is really good, but I don't have all the equipment he does such as strobes and lights. Everyone has their own style so just go out and develop your own.
post #27937 of 27938
messing w/ my 135

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post #27938 of 27938


Bored ... Looking at some Paris pics.
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