So I got a pair of raw denim tailored a while back. They're some Flint and Tinder joints I copped from a link in here. The tailor recommended that she take from the outseam because that's how it's supposed to be done. I told her I didn't want that because my cuff would look ridiculous. She said that I shouldn't wear my jeans with a cuff and that she'll alter them to a length where I wouldn't have to cuff. She did this and my selvedge stitch is mad silly. Joint is like 2.5" wide . But the length and leg opening are perfect so I don't wear a cuff.
I recently came up on a pair of raw Japanese selvedge denim not too long ago from Gap (should have ooped but didn't). I took them to a different tailor and told them this same story. She said that you can take from the outseam but cut the excess material to keep the stitch at a normal width. Have y'all ever of heard of this? I told her that'd be straight and I should be picking them up today. I'll post pics later of both pairs so you can see.