Official Photography Thread: Vol. ICan'tFindTheLastOne

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i want to get into photography and would like to know wat a good beginner camera is and wat advice and tips do you guys have.. also is the Canon PowerShot S5IS Digital Camera (8.0 Megapixel, 12x Optical Zoom, 4x Digital Zoom, 2.5" LCD, OIS) a good cam?
 
Originally Posted by SaNTi0321



Comments/Critique Welcome.

Everyone is dropping some serious knowledge into this post. Much appreciated.
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like Yamakazi said....last picture is off because the center is not in focus. the sides of the two cars are also out of focus. increase the aperture alittle bit. And the color is a little unsaturated....not as vibrant compared to the other pictures.
Jae Kilroy - Love the wide angle shot. Is that a Canon10-20 lens or a 3rd party? Nice effect with the color.
 
Originally Posted by Jaw Knee C

Originally Posted by SaNTi0321



Comments/Critique Welcome.

Everyone is dropping some serious knowledge into this post. Much appreciated.
pimp.gif

like Yamakazi said....last picture is off because the center is not in focus. the sides of the two cars are also out of focus. increase the aperture a little bit. And the color is a little unsaturated....not as vibrant compared to the other pictures.
Jae Kilroy - Love the wide angle shot. Is that a Canon 10-20 lens or a 3rd party? Nice effect with the color.
Yeah, i was having trouble focusing cause my lens was so close to the cars. I'm guessing i have to mess with exposure after i change theaperture cause sometime the pics come out under/over exposed.

Thanks Jaw Knee C and Yamakazi.
 
^ Nice shots. Did you use a tripod when taking those pics?

Trying to get that smoke/fog look with the long exposure and running water... didnt really come out like i wanted cause ou can still see a lot of droplets.

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thanks, no tripod for those shots.

I'm also trying work on the "dreamy" waterfall look but i simply cant get it with the tap. i think i'll try it next week if its sunny at apark or someplace that has a fall.
 
Took these a while ago, but its barely noticeable cause its too flat i guess... barely any movement.

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DSLR Tips Workshop: How to blur water for a creative effect

When it comes to photographing moving subjects, you'd naturally assume freezing the action would give the best result. That's certainly the case for some subjects, but others can end up looking static and lifeless. Waterfalls and rivers are classic examples which can take on a far more dramatic appearance when the water itself is blurred.
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In the photo above left, we've used the camera's automatic settings, and a relatively quick exposure has frozen the water in its tracks - as a result it looks lifeless. In the photo above right, we've adjusted the shutter speed for a slower exposure which has blurred the water, giving both a dreamy appearance and a far greater impression of motion. In our video tutorial below, we'll explain how to achieve this effect, and at the bottom of the page you'll find a reminder of the steps you'll need to take.



Checklist: Blurring water for a creative effect
1: Switch your camera to Shutter Priority mode by turning the mode dial to 'S' or on Canon models, 'Tv'.

2: Choose a slower than normal shutter speed to blur the water. 1/30 is a good starting point.

3: Check your photo. If the water isn't blurred enough, choose a slower shutter speed like 1/15 or 1/8.� Note you may need a tripod or an anti-shake system to avoid camera shake - see below.

4: In shutter priority, your camera will work out the aperture setting for you. If the f-number starts flashing though, it means it can't balance the shot. In this example, the exposure may be too long, so if your sensitivity (ISO) is already at the lowest number, you'll have to choose a slightly quicker shutter speed until the f-number stops flashing.

5: After taking your photo, remember to set the mode dial back to Auto or Program mode.




Watch out!

As you reduce the shutter speed, you become more susceptible to camera shake. People vary, but if you're using a kit lens zoomed-out to wide angle without any kind of anti-shake, the slowest handheld exposure you'll normally get away with is about 1/30. If you naturally shake, you may need at least 1/60, but if you're very steady, then you may be ok at 1/15. If you zoom-in at all, you'll need faster exposures to compensate for the greater magnification.

So when applying this technique to blur water, always hold your camera very steady. Tripods can provide a steady base, or alternatively cameras and lenses with anti-shake facilities can greatly help here - see below. If you are using a tripod, remember pressing the shutter release button can still wobble your shot. So always take the photo with either a shutter release cable or the self-timer to avoid all chance of shake.

Equipment tip

The simplest way to avoid camera shake is to use a tripod. Manfrotto models are widely regarded as the best around and allow you to separately buy the legs and the head unit. A great starter combination are the Manfrotto 190-series legs and the 460MG head unit. If you'd prefer to travel lighter, consider a Joby Gorillapod who's flexible legs can be wrapped around almost anything from a railing to a branch for a steady grip.

Anti-shake facilities are now being built into many DSLRs and lenses. These allow you to handhold much slower exposures than normal, although for the longest you'll still need a tripod. If you're a Canon or Nikon DSLR owner, popular lenses with anti-shake include the following:

Canon EF-S 17-85mm IS USM review

Nikkor DX 18-200mm VR review


Watch out! Too bright? Use a 'Neutral Density' filter

As you select slower exposures in Shutter Priority mode to blur action, your camera will automatically close the iris in the lens in order to maintain a correct exposure. So far so good, but at a certain point, the iris will be at its smallest size, beyond which slower shutter speeds will mean an over-exposed image. When this happens, you'll normally see your aperture f-number start flashing as a warning your camera can't balance the exposure.

This can be a problem if you're trying to use the blurring technique on a bright subject as even with the aperture closed to its smallest opening, the shutter speed for a correct exposure may still end up being too quick to blur the motion.

Presuming your camera is already set to its lowest sensitivity (the smallest ISO number), the solution is to attach a special filter onto your lens which blocks some of the light. Since these filters only reduce the light entering the camera and don't affect the colour, they're known as 'Neutral Density' filters.

A 2x Neutral Density filter will halve the light entering your camera, while a 4x will quarter it. They're very handy accessories to have if you like the technique described on this page. Simply buy a model with a screw thread which matches your lens - most DSLR kit lenses have a filter thread diameter of 58mm, but it will always be written on the front of the lens.

A polarising filter can also act as a Neutral Density filter, although depending on its position and the surroundings, it may have other effects too. Either way, both types of filter reduce the light entering your camera, allowing you to use slower shutter speeds without suffering from overexposure.

Pretty good tutorial I found on www.DSLRtips.com
 
SaNT, I got a question. Is that a gym, and if so, did you just go in their w/ a tripod and camera equipment, set up in the middle of the place, and startshooting, or is there some kind of regulation for shooting in public places like that? This is probably a question a lot of you guys could answer for me; justwondering cause I think I might wanna do something like that
 
Sorry guys......I just got an olympus e-500 not too long ago..............my first time really playing with it..........ill be able to contribute more, therejust isnt ANYTHING in my house worthy of taking pics of, lol
 
Received the 50mm F1.8 from Ebay. Thanks for the lens bro. Learning how to manual focus and adjust the aperture size to get the right exposure. Here are a fewshots...

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i just bought a mac with aperture program, some wacom tablet that comes with Photoshop Elements and nikon d40 man this photography hobby aint no joke costingme a lot of $$$ but i cant wait till i get to play with it tommorow
 
Im looking to buy a camera this friday (Nikon). I need one that will take good quality pics, mostly for when im skating. any suggestions? lookin to spend like500-600. Also, are you guys using photoshop or photoshop elements to make them look ummmmm hidef? lol. thanks.

Also, what lenses should I get? I know I want a wide and fish eye. What else? Im tryna' do it big lol.
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Originally Posted by dkjordan23

SaNT, I got a question. Is that a gym, and if so, did you just go in their w/ a tripod and camera equipment, set up in the middle of the place, and start shooting, or is there some kind of regulation for shooting in public places like that? This is probably a question a lot of you guys could answer for me; just wondering cause I think I might wanna do something like that

Its like a small shopping center, It was pretty late so you can tell no one was walking around. I just started taking a few pictures. I don't knowabout the regulations, but i just shoot anywhere as long as it doesn't say its no allowed.
 
Originally Posted by ayoHOV

Originally Posted by M Eazy724

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Chimes

What kind of camera you got? With what lenses and did you do any photo retouching to that pic?
Nikon D40 bro. I was using a 50mm f1.8D lens. PP was just sharpening, levels, and increased saturation. Hope that helped.
 
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