The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

A photographer who shoots in auto is either lazy or doesn't actually understand how to work his camera. If I take shot and the results aren't what I'm looking to get I know exactly what to change because I have read what changes what and practiced with my camera to get my desired results. To purchase a DSLR and shoot in manual is a waste of money if you will shoot mainly in AUTO because the point of having one is to have control of every single setting possible. If you want to shoot in auto get a $4-500 point and shoot and save $500+

But if shooting in AUTO is your preference do that, don't change on our behalf. But I can guaruntee you as you broaden your photography that AUTO mode will fail you
 
^^^^^^I got one already but thanks.

And agree with using auto on DLSRs. You are only using a percentage of the power of a DSLR. You should have all the options to shoot whatever kind of photo in whatever setting whether it be action shot, long exposure, high iso shot, wide open, more closed aperture and so on. Plus in auto and shooting at night, a DLSR will always pop a flash and I hate shooting flash photos from the body of the camera.




So just a question for people that have done it. Shooting my friend's City Hall wedding Friday. Not your average full fledged wedding but still want to make it look nice. Any lens recommendations for it? I have the 24mm and a 50mm covered. I was thinking about getting the 135mm again but wondering it it'd be smarter to get a zoom so I am not restricted. Plus changing lenses for every shot might be a total pain and waste of time. I am doing some posed shots but some will be of the ceremony where I get one shot at it.

Yo Rolo................what did you use for this photo set? https://www.flickr.com/photos/dunksrnice/sets/72157645377759891/

It's literally what I am doing and same location.
 
Never shot a wedding but that 50mm is very versatile and would likely get the best range of shots. Using the 135mm would mean you'd need to have a good sized distance to get a waist up shot (estimating about 10 ft away) between you and them while that 50mm will allow you to be a 4-6 ft away.
 
I'm assuming you can get close enough to the couple in that setting? When I did a wedding I had a 70-200 and a 28-75. Barely used the long zoom and only did because there were parts of the alter I wasn't allowed to go up on. If you're doing shots like that flickr set you'll be fine with what you have. The longer lens would be good if you want close ups of their face without PP cropping.
 
I'd use the long for some top view shots mostly and some bust shots but I guess I can do that with the 50mm.


Here is the layout of City hall in a nutshell. You can see where I might need a long lens. Most of it would do say if I was shooting from say where the stairs are and the couple was near the pillar section or vice versa. I like Rolo's top view shot of the couple dancing (sorry bro, need to steal some poses....haha). I am going to scope out the location tomorrow just to see what my lenses look in there. Just wondering if people had lens preferences. I'd even like to go wider than 24mm if I could but wonder if the distortion would look odd but it looks nice in this hall setting.

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^^^^Here is this guy's set: http://www.dannydongblog.com/2012/03/san-francisco-city-hall-wedding-fanny-ken-san-francisco-ca/
 
hey maybe one of you guys have ran into this problem or know of a solution, but

my macbook used to be able to recognize my SD card from my camera but one day it just stopped recognizing it

anyone know how to fix this? could there be some kind of damage to the SD slot on my mac?
 
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I dont understand manual though because you are just taking the long way to get the same shot hear me out.......

if you are shooting something, you choose an aperture you want in A mode, then the camera will automatically choose an exposure, I keep iso on manual of course to. From there you can you use the small exposure adjustments to change the shot's exposure by 0.5 1.0 1.5 ev ect either way

You are just wasting time having to make massive exposure adjustment in difference scenes instead of fine adjustments based off what the natural exposure is according to the camera. 

this is completely different then using auto point and shoot mode on a dslr 
 
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^^^^Aperture priority is still different than auto. Granted it's still not full manual but when you talk about making exposure adjustments in your camera, that is something you still have to do manually. Auto is where you just have to press the shutter button and let the camera pick what shot "it likes", just like a point and shoot. A-mode is literally one of the better modes on a camera that is not manual.
 
the thing for me is that learning how to adjust settings to a sitaution is not a difficult thing. if you were to take 2 days to learn the impact of iso, apeture, and shutter speed you'd probably fully understand it and be able to set settings up without needing to take a test shot.

you're only benefit to using AUTO or a priority setting is if you are caught off guard to take a picture and you have to capture RIGHT NOW. outside of that, on a job or in a studio using AUTO is lazy
 
not saying auto is the be all end all, just that it is, & can be, in fact be sufficient (and for most people auto is the starting point, and an dslr in auto will definitely get better pics than a p&s, there is a reason EVERY dslr has these modes)...maybe sort of like autofocus might have been when it was first touted as a feature? now it is at the point where it seems kind of silly NOT to use autofocus...the human eye is said to potentially see around 20+ 'f-stops' of light but in average conditions somewhere between 6-14 stops, & cameras anywhere from 3 to around 15 stops but not really as well as our own eyes, and this seems to be the main reason to use manual (things like shallow depth of field, allowing/freezing motion, portrait, are all either auto modes or recognized by the camera's software), now imagine you've been taking the majority of your images with an iphone/smartphone whose dynamic range is on the lower end of that scale, a you get an entry level dslr (even though an advanced p&s may be just as good and maybe a lil less expensive, I think most people move to dslr because they do want experience of dedicated camera that doesn't feel completely like a smartphone) that is probably on order of at least 2, maybe 3-5 times better, you would be probably be pretty satisfied with most of the images the camera got in auto mode, no?

to be a photographer is not synonymous with being a camera manipulator, photographers create/capture images via the camera, some of the most famous photographs in history aren't technically perfect...knowing the ins and outs of the camera is good thing, I guess the question is if there was a camera that could see better than the human eye and was reliable enough to get things 'right' 95% of the time in an auto mode, why wouldn't you use it for when it worked for most situations? isn't the difference between being a photographer and being someone who takes pictures the more than knowing how to use a camera?
 
I KNOW WHEN I BOUGHT MY D5200 BACK IN FEBUARY, I TOLD MYSELF, "IM GOING TO LEARN MANUAL MODE". IM NOWHERE NEAR WHERE I WANT TO BE BUT I SEE CONSTANT IMPROVEMENTS IN MY SHOTS.

I DISLIKE AUTO MODE FOR THE SIMPLE FACT OF THE "AUTO FLASH". 99% OF MY SHOTS ARE USING NATURAL LIGHTING(JUST MY PREFERENCE).

AS STILL BEING A BEGINNER, I CAN UNDERSTAND USING AUTO MODE WHEN YOU FIRST BUY YOUR CAMERA JUST BECAUSE YOU ARE EAGER TO USE IT BUT I AGREE WITH MOST, BUYING A DSLR, YOU DEF NEED TO TAKE THE TIME TO LEARN MANUAL MODE. ITS ALL TRAIL AND ERROR FOR ME UNTIL I GET MY SHOT.
 
Too much quibble about what camera mode is best. A camera is just another tool used to do a job. If you can get that job done in Auto, go for it. If you have to be in M mode to get it done, go for it.

Who cares about a perfectly exposed shot, if you can't compose a shot, or catch the moment anyways? 
 
 
A photographer who shoots in auto is either lazy or doesn't actually understand how to work his camera. If I take shot and the results aren't what I'm looking to get I know exactly what to change because I have read what changes what and practiced with my camera to get my desired results. To purchase a DSLR and shoot in manual is a waste of money if you will shoot mainly in AUTO because the point of having one is to have control of every single setting possible. If you want to shoot in auto get a $4-500 point and shoot and save $500+

But if shooting in AUTO is your preference do that, don't change on our behalf. But I can guaruntee you as you broaden your photography that AUTO mode will fail you
lol stop trying to get all high and mighty because you go out of your way to use your camera inefficiently . If we are both shooting a scene in the same iso and aperture, and you are using manual and I am using A Mode, we are both basically going to get the same exposure time give or take a couple EVs depending on our preference or the picture will be completely washed out or to dark. The difference is you will fumble with the manual exposure button having to make wild adjustments while I can the minor adjustment button right away and nail the shot based on the metering mode I use.  This is crucial for street photography or anything that requires some sort of speed.
 
Too much quibble about what camera mode is best. A camera is just another tool used to do a job. If you can get that job done in Auto, go for it. If you have to be in M mode to get it done, go for it.

Who cares about a perfectly exposed shot, if you can't compose a shot, or catch the moment anyways? 

exactly, well said!
 
My ability to change settings manually, in my opinion, is expected if I want to be a professional photographer. But again, it's my opinion. I don't have to fumble to make adjustments because I fumbled in the past and learned what to adjust to get my desired effect. If you want to shoot in AUTO do that.
 
A photographer who shoots in auto is either lazy or doesn't actually understand how to work his camera. If I take shot and the results aren't what I'm looking to get I know exactly what to change because I have read what changes what and practiced with my camera to get my desired results. To purchase a DSLR and shoot in manual is a waste of money if you will shoot mainly in AUTO because the point of having one is to have control of every single setting possible. If you want to shoot in auto get a $4-500 point and shoot and save $500+

But if shooting in AUTO is your preference do that, don't change on our behalf. But I can guaruntee you as you broaden your photography that AUTO mode will fail you

Who the hell is going to spend $500 on a point and shoot when you can get an entry level DSLR for the same price?

I would never suggest to someone who wants to dabble in photography as a hobby to spend $500 on an EX2F or a G1 when they can buy a Rebel and have room to grow with their investment.


To spend $500 on a point and shoot is a WASTE of money when you can get much more for your money. Whether you're shooting auto or not.

They wouldn't put the autofocus on the lenses if it weren't meant to be used. Thats force feeding ignorance.

Too much quibble about what camera mode is best. A camera is just another tool used to do a job. If you can get that job done in Auto, go for it. If you have to be in M mode to get it done, go for it.

Who cares about a perfectly exposed shot, if you can't compose a shot, or catch the moment anyways? 

QFE
 
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Who the hell is going to spend $500 on a point and shoot when you can get an entry level DSLR for the same price?

I would never suggest to someone who wants to dabble in photography as a hobby to spend $500 on an EX2F or a G1 when they can buy a Rebel and have room to grow with their investment.


To spend $500 on a point and shoot is a WASTE of money when you can get much more for your money. Whether you're shooting auto or not.

They wouldn't put the autofocus on the lenses if it weren't meant to be used. Thats force feeding ignorance.
QFE
I'm about to by a RX100 III - not everyone wants to log around a DSLR everywhere they go ....

Have a couple of 5D II and my lenses are 35 50 85 135 L's plus 24-105 and my bag is extremely heavy ....

I don't need to take professional pictures everywhere I go ....
 
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If you can't shoot in manual mode, with manual focus and no image stabilization you'll never be great.


srs
 
Who the hell is going to spend $500 on a point and shoot when you can get an entry level DSLR for the same price?


I would never suggest to someone who wants to dabble in photography as a hobby to spend $500 on an EX2F or a G1 when they can buy a Rebel and have room to grow with their investment.



To spend $500 on a point and shoot is a WASTE of money when you can get much more for your money. Whether you're shooting auto or not.


They wouldn't put the autofocus on the lenses if it weren't meant to be used. Thats force feeding ignorance.

QFE


I'm about to by a RX100 III - not everyone wants to log around a DSLR everywhere they go ....

Have a couple of 5D II and my lenses are 35 50 85 135 L's plus 24-105 and my bag is extremely heavy ....

I don't need to take professional pictures everywhere I go ....

I can dig that, but I wouldn't shoot down someones options just because they choose to shoot in auto.

I would always suggest options to someone.

You have your $549 Canon G1 X, and then you have your $599 (nowadays cheaper) Canon Rebel T3i. Both great cameras, both serve similar purposes for certain situations.


I wouldn't tell someone who might just be starting out that buying an entry level DSLR is a waste of money if they plan on shooting in Auto though. You never know, they might one day plan to learn more about the camera.


Because if money is a factor, and they overspend on that point and shoot but want to upgrade to an SLR, well, they're **** out of luck aren't they? Thats another $500+ they have to spend.

Its all about what you plan on doing with your camera or your interests that decide what kind of camera you should get. Auto focus is just an option on the lens.

Thats the point I'm trying to get across.

You already have a few DSLR's and lenses. You have a history and you know what you want out of each camera you have and plan to buy. But someone like me who just got their fist camera almost 2 years ago didn't know what I wanted. I had to weigh my options. I was about to do that same thing he said, and go buy a $600 point and shoot.

I'm glad I didn't. You can get a really decent P&S for cheaper than that
 
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I can dig that, but I wouldn't shoot down someones options just because they choose to shoot in auto.

I would always suggest options to someone.

You have your $549 Canon G1 X, and then you have your $599 (nowadays cheaper) Canon Rebel T3i. Both great cameras, both serve similar purposes for certain situations.


I wouldn't tell someone who might just be starting out that buying an entry level DSLR is a waste of money if they plan on shooting in Auto though. You never know, they might one day plan to learn more about the camera.


Because if money is a factor, and they overspend on that point and shoot but want to upgrade to an SLR, well, they're **** out of luck aren't they? Thats another $500+ they have to spend.

Its all about what you plan on doing with your camera or your interests that decide what kind of camera you should get. Auto focus is just an option on the lens.

Thats the point I'm trying to get across.

You already have a few DSLR's and lenses. You have a history and you know what you want out of each camera you have and plan to buy. But someone like me who just got their fist camera almost 2 years ago didn't know what I wanted. I had to weigh my options. I was about to do that same thing he said, and go buy a $600 point and shoot.

I'm glad I didn't.
You are right - but someone might be more discourage to take on photography with a p&s that they don't understand how to use than with a point and shoot that can be set on manual.

People are buying more DSLR because they are becoming cheaper and cheaper - but when they set their camera on Auto and expect to get HQ images and the outcome is bad. They start blaming the camera rather than their skills.

Lastly, you can take good pictures with a HQ point and shoot like the RX just the same as a t3i, by applying the fundamentals.

P.S. I can get your point in regards to upgrading etc etc etc ... IMHO you should learn how to use a camera PERIOD before thinking about upgrading etc. I have a friend that bought a D7100 and a few months after he bought it he's coming to me about his not happy about the crop sensor etc etc etc ... All Im thinking is - you aren't applying the fundamentals you are getting discourage and you are blaming the camera... I seen his pictures and I know people with P&S taking better picture while on Manual Mode. Photography is subjective, but you have to  have an eye for whats tasteful and what's not - what can set a picture above another one etc ... its not about ultra sharp well light vibrant color all the time .... is much more than that!
 
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I was that guy who kept the dslr on auto 95% of the time. Had no idea of the fundamentals. An old co-worker happened to be a photographer and I asked him how to take good looking pics, I've been shooting manual since. I know Aperture priority and Shutter priority but I don't fully understand them so I stay away.
 
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