Dressing Better Vol 2.0

Discussion in 'General' started by pinoy732, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. pinoy732

    pinoy732

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    It's been going on for awhile that people were getting bored with the old db thread and that some initiative needed to be taken to start a new one. Rather than waiting for niidawg or rfx to bring us salvation, figured why not stop talking and make it. Especially with the change of platform to the new NT, a couple hundred pages or so are missing out so i give to you, Dressing Better Vol 2.0

    In here i hope that we can all share ideas and criticisms to help build a wardrobe suited to our environments and own personalities. So please NT, share your outfits, questions, dilemmas and what not and enjoy the new DB

    The Collective Blog

    http://ntscollective.tumblr.com

    here's an overview, courtesy of wj4
    Introduction: While a well fitting suit should be the foundation of a man’s wardrobe, “dressing better” does not mean you have to wear suits every day. The purpose of the thread is to assist you in creating an aesthetic around classic/timeless inspired items. Fashion is fickle, it changes. Styles are forever. Ideally, we want you to develop a look you can wear 5 or 10 years from now. In addition to this thread, we want members to gain exposure via blogs, magazines, etc. to different types of styles and create a look they can be comfortable in because confidence is the best thing you can wear.

    We encourage members to participate, however we do ask everyone to be respectful and keep the thread positive. Members who do not follow the protocol will be reported accordingly.

    From assessing the former thread in addition to this thread, it appears that the major demographic is in the age bracket of late teens to late 20s. Given that we know who the major demographic consists of, we will focus the post around the group. This post will cover basic information that is often asked. If your question is not answered here, please feel free to make a post and ask!

    Some of the members’ favorite shops include: Banana Republic, J. Crew, Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, Levi’s, Gap, Target, and Macy’s.

    **If you are starting off fresh AKA redoing your entire wardrobe, we recommend starting off with colors and patterns that are versatile. You should stick with colors like blue, gray, and beige and patterns that are mundane than flamboyant such as gingham and vertical stripes (Please see below for a comprehensive of different types of patterns for shirts). While the colors of blue, gray, and beige may appear to be limiting, your choices are surprisingly vast. For example, let us use navy blue as an example. There are a plethora of hues that fall under navy blue; on one end you have a slightly deep royal tone, and on the other end, you have a very dark blue that is almost black.**

    1. SUITS
    Your first two suits should be navy and dark gray. What suit you should buy first? That is ultimately up to you. The reason being is that these two colors are very versatile, and can be mixed with each other to create new looks. Navy is timeless, in almost all cultures. Dark gray is versatile and close enough to black to wear to more formal events. Both look good with nearly every other color under the sun. Given our demographic, it is recommended you go with a modern 1 or 2 button jacket for the suit.
    Suit sizing: Suits will come in sizes such as 38R, 40S, 44L. The first number refers to chest measurement, and the S, R, L refer to Small, Regular, Long (respectively). A 38S, 38R, and 38L will all fit the same width-wise, but the Regular will have longer sleeves than the Small, and the Long will have longer sleeves than the Regular.
    If your chest is in between size, you should get one that fits you well in other places such as the shoulders, arm width, length of the jacket. You can always have a tailor take in the width of the jacket and other minor tweaks.

    The traditional train of thought is that the jacket is supposed to be long enough to cover your rear, but there is actually no set length. The length of the jacket should be proportional to your height. You may want to ensure that the jacket is not too short though, or else it may seem too fashion forward, unless that is what you are going for.
    If you are buying your first suit, you may want to skip functional buttons on the sleeves. This means that you can actually button/unbutton the buttons from the holes. The reason is that if you need to shorten/lengthen your sleeves, it is extremely harder with functional buttons.

    For the length of the jacket’s sleeves, it is up to your preference. Some prefer the length to be just as long as their shirt sleeves so nothing show. Others prefer to have the length just cover the wrist bones so ¼ to 1 inch of the shirt under shows through. Some want a more dramatic effect with a lot showing. The following will show practically from no visibility, a bit visibility, and dramatic visibility.

    No visibility: http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/BrooksBrothers/MK00005_NAVY_1?$ProductImages$
    A little: http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/25269_BR6878_m?$pdp_fs418$
    Dramatic: http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/BrooksBrothers/MK00006_TAN?$ProductImages$

    For trousers, we want to accomplish a slim and flattering silhouette here, not skinny or baggy. To establish the look, it is best to have minimal break or no break at all. This means that you should not have excess material of your pants bunching up on your shoes/boots.

    These are good:
    http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/91031_BR6878_m?$pdp_fs418$
    http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/16561_GY6480_s?$pdp_fs418$
    http://i47.tinypic.com/33zd75g.jpg

    This one is bad, too much material bunching on top of the shoes:
    http://i45.tinypic.com/358rryq.jpg

    2. SHIRTS
    There are two categories here: Dress shirts and sport shirts. Dress shirts are more formal, the length is usually longer. It is long enough to cover your entire rear because it is meant to be tucked in. There are slots under the collar to insert collar stays. Use collar stays to keep your collars straight and from bending. Sport shirts are more casual, usually shorter in length which is meant to be worn untucked.

    Dress shirts may come in regular sizes such as small, medium, and large. They may also come in sizes such as 14.5 x 33, 15 x 35. The first number indicates the measurement around the neck, and the second number shows the measurement from the shoulder down to the arm.

    How do I know if my shirt fits properly? The sleeves should be long enough that they cover your wrist bones, but they should not be passing the meat of your palms. This is a good example of an appropriate length: http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m7l9sdivTA1qad1efo1_500.jpg

    You also want to have a slim fitting silhouette overall. You do not want to have a spandex tight fitting shirt, or a shirt that makes you look bloated. The key is slim fitting that gives you a bit of room for movement. A good test is that the buttons on your shirt should not be prying apart when you sit down.

    Something like this is most likely too tight around the width: http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/53368_GY6104_m?$pdp_fs418$
    Something like this is too baggy and loose:
    http://www.robbinssports.com/images/port-authority-TLS608-tall-long-sleeve-easy-care-shirt.jpg

    This is a better alternative as you have a bit of fabric to allow for movement:
    http://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/48447_BL8595_m?$pdp_fs418$

    When buying a shirt, the most important aspects are to ensure that the length of the sleeves fit you properly and the circumference of the neck fits you well. You should be able to just stick a finger in between your collar and neck when all the buttons are buttoned. If the width of the sleeves is too baggy or the width of the shirt itself is too loose, a tailor can easily take care of that for you for a relatively low cost.

    Accessories:
    If you plan on wearing a tie with your suit, it is best to make sure that the widest point of the tie is at or near the same measurement as the lapel’s width on the jacket to stay in proportion. Example: Wearing a skinny tie with a suit that has 4” lapel will look weird because nothing is in proportion.

    Example: The difference in the width of the tie and lapel is too great, looks unbalanced. http://zipperties.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/black-skinny-ties.jpg

    Acceptable differences:
    http://i50.tinypic.com/1zpnpkx.jpg
    http://i47.tinypic.com/1zlviqg.jpg
    You should also wear a belt that correlates with the footwear or outfit. It is understandable that sometimes you may not have a belt to match the exact shade of the shoes you are wearing. At this point, ensure that the belt either compliments the shoes or your ensemble.
    Please note that other accessories such as pocket squares and lapel pins are left out intentionally as they are usually not necessary and this is an introduction post.

    from wj4's findings:
    (link http://www.styleforum.net/t/308529/shirting-patterns-by-christina-lee)

    WJ4:
    I got them from this book:


    Very cool read on the background along with interesting pictures.



    3. OUTERWEAR:

    A. The Harrington aka Blouson
    http://www.bennevisclothing.com/Web...3/0A0A/33E8/38FF/Harrington_Jacket_Navy_2.JPG

    B. The waxed jacket
    http://www.barbourbymail.co.uk/userimages/productstyles/product_large/0000800000000.jpg

    C. The overcoat
    http://www.julesb.co.uk/menswear-1/...aul-smith-london-luxury-641546-77487_zoom.jpg

    D. The denim jacket
    http://www.hampersjeans.com/levijeans/levi-mens-jean-jackets/images/LevisSWWornLookDenimJacket.jpg

    E. The duffle coat
    http://www.emenfashion.com/wp-conte...rooks-Brothers-Madison-Wool-Duffle-Coat-4.jpg

    F. The fishtail parka
    http://www.selectism.com/news/wp-co...urberry-hooded-fishtail-parka-selectism-0.jpg

    G. The flight jacket
    http://www.tamfraesc.co.uk/stock/ma1 flight jacket.jpg

    H. The Mac AKA raincoat
    http://www.gentlemansgadgets.com/for men/images/2008/03/jcrew-mackintosh-raincoat.jpg

    I. The biker jacket
    http://www3.images.coolspotters.com/photos/432724/all-saints-biker-jacket-profile.jpg

    J. The peacoat
    http://www.upscaleswagger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/versace-collection-wool-peacoat.jpg

    K. The bomber jacket
    http://archeo.graphr.net/web/2009/toj/2.2/toj2-2.jpg

    L. The varsity jacket
    http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lj5t6lZL2p1qaeyyp.jpg

    M. The field jacket
    http://www.bowerstactical.com/store/images/4449.jpg

    Blogs that may be inspirational::

    http://mr-moderngentleman.tumblr.com/

    http://suitsareforever.tumblr.com/

    http://gntstyle.tumblr.com/

    http://menstyle1.com/

    http://torontomanblog.com/

    http://dresslikea.tumblr.com/

    http://lnsee.tumblr.com/

    http://www.voxsartoria.com/

    http://waxwane.tumblr.com/

    http://thenordicfit.tumblr.com/

    http://arichinnerlife.tumblr.com/

    http://da-i-net.tumblr.com/

    http://patrickjohnsontailors.tumblr.com/

    http://menofhabit.tumblr.com/

    http://pleatsareforlovers.tumblr.com/

    http://tommyton.tumblr.com/

    http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/

    http://adabraka-sartorialist.tumblr.com/

    http://yolowastaken.tumblr.com/

    http://nashvillewhoring.tumblr.com/

    http://blog.loganzane.com/

    http://giantbeard.tumblr.com/

    http://lacasuarina.tumblr.com/

    http://kleidsam.tumblr.com/

    http://peacockmagpie.tumblr.com/

    ****Details on ordering second's quality Allen Edmonds*****





    Personal experience, within US, orders should arrive in under a week
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2014
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  2. supraman1784

    supraman1784

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    good looks, i did notice a lot of the pages were missing in the og thread.
     
  3. aceofjays

    aceofjays

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    I had a feeling this would happen lol
     
  4. wj4

    wj4

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    Ah, you beat me to it. I'll post what I have in an hour or two. I'm typing it up on MS Word at the moment to prevent a glitch while posting AKA everything got erased, I'll do my best to re-read it but the brain is kinda fried at the moment.
     
  5. grizzlyboy

    grizzlyboy

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    Just picked up a Navy Blue Slim CK suit from Marshall's for $119. I figured what the hell. I will definitely post pics when I get it back from alterations.
     
  6. redbox

    redbox

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  7. ksteezy

    ksteezy

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    cmon bros, all talk and no fits!...lol....ill be the first, bitter-sweet feeling to have a new thread, something special about the last one, but today is the day for change....anyhow i put together some of the last fits i put together, which were posted in the past thread.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. retrospect90

    retrospect90

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    Do all of you all dress how YOU want and not worry about what people say? I know everyone says they do but deep down some think about whats in style or what people think. The only reason I ask is because I'm a pretty simple t-shirt and shorts kind of guy or hoody and sweats when it's cold. I was thinking about changing it up a little but I don't want to seem like I'm trying to be something I'm not or be out of my comfort zone and conform to what other people think I should dress like. So what are some ideas to dress better but still keep it real simple.
     
  9. wj4

    wj4

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    I will continue to pitch it when time permits. I did not cover all of the basics, but here's a start:


    I dislike the term “dressing better” because I feel like it’s a misrepresentation. I feel this thread has, in the past and will continue to be a mixture of timeless men’s wear attire mixed in with an avant garde twist. I will cover the basic components in this post, and I welcome anyone and everyone to participate. Please try to keep the thread positive and don’t ruin it for the sake of trolling. I will link to entries I’ve written in the past that I think may be helpful.


    Suits:
    A suit is a jacket and trousers made out of the same material in the same color so there can be many kind of suits; denim suit, leather suit, etc. It is in your best interest to buy the suit as a set. Don’t try to buy a blue jacket that’s on sale and attempt to match a blue pair of trousers to it; it will be nearly impossible to match them up unless you happen to get the same trousers that were a part of the suit.


    There are several types of jackets:
    You have a one button jacket: http://www.porhomme.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/kitsune-one-button-formal-jacket-ss2011-2.jpg

    You have a two button jacket: http://skayweddingday.files.wordpre...tton-suit-jacket-with-double-vented-back.jpeg

    You have a three button jacket: http://content.nordstrom.com/ImageGallery/store/product/Gigantic/6/_5418606.jpg

    You have a 3 roll onto 2 jacket; which means there are three buttons, but the top button is not meant to be used, it is there for aesthetic purposes: http://www.esquire.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/DSC_1881-500x752.jpg

    You also have a couple of types of pocket choices:

    You have the traditional, which just show the flaps: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_y1AaCCgGL...u0/ZmJCP33rR1o/s640/Web-Sport-Coat-16-001.jpg

    You have patch pockets with the flaps: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_y1AaCCgGL...u0/ZmJCP33rR1o/s640/Web-Sport-Coat-16-001.jpg

    You have patch pockets by themselves: http://www.openingceremony.us/pimg/61689_1.jpg

    The patch pockets are for more casual jackets.

    Blog entry on different routes you can go about when buying a suit:


    Shirts:
    When it comes to collar shirts, you have dress shirts and sport shirts. The definitions vary, but to me a dress shirt is more structured and longer in length because it is meant to be tucked in. A sport shirt is shorter in length and comes in colorful variations. It also does not have places to house the collar stays under the collar.
    There a variety of collars, but I will keep it simple and discuss three here.

    Regular, versatile and mundane: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/123793906/Men_Business_Shirt_100_Cotton_Regular_Collar.jpg

    Spread, looks great with a tie, but some think it looks weird when not worn with a tie:
    http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/SpooPoker/aa4d347e.jpg

    Button down collar, probably the most liked since it looks good with a tie and without:
    http://www.whitedressshirts.com/shirt_med/mSIBBDRC.jpg


    Shoes/boots:

    Quality footwear is something you shouldn’t skimp on. They can last for decades with the proper care. The favorite choice here is Allen Edmonds because they are a great bang for the buck. Look for shoes/boots that are Goodyear welted. I’ve written several entries regarding shoes so I’ll link them accordingly.

    Construction:

    Styles:



    Common materials:

    Different types of lasts: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/26746556660/the-battle-of-the-lasts-to-the-majority-of-the


    Miscellaneous entries:

    Finding a tailor: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/26475481769/finding-a-good-tailor-is-imperative-theres-a

    Slim fitting that flatters the body, but not spandex tight: http://wisith.tumblr.com/post/23914693131/slim-fitting-but-not-skin-hugging-one-of-the
     
    jomitm and tomdiginson like this.
  10. solarius49

    solarius49

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    I posted this in the other thread, but where can I get some shoes that are the Stubbs and Wooton style at a lower price point?
     
  11. wj4

    wj4

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    Yes. You need to develop your own style or else you won't be comfortable in it, which defeats the whole point. I carry a pouch with me that houses my cell phones, pen, etc. and I know that all of the teens must question my sexuality when I walk by them, but I couldn't care less.

    Develop your own style:

    Also wrote on "street wear" because it extends to more than what most NTers think:

    RE: your ideas, there's TONS. Try a leather jacket, or varsity jacket and pair with a sport shirt, plain dark jeans and simple sneakers and you're golden. You can also incorporate cardigans in there, it's the hoody's bigger brother.

    Ksteez: If I post up my outfit pictures, people will complain again, haha. They're uploaded daily and are on the blog.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012
  12. retrospect90

    retrospect90

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    Thanks Wj4
     
  13. cj003

    cj003

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    Yes and No. I work in a court house, so its kind of hood. Dudes be wearing them zoot (sp) suits, and linen shorts sets and **** to court. When I pass by I hear people say crap like "damn dude bought that suit too damn small" when in actuality its a slim suit b/c im a slim guy. My fit is on point w/ most people on here. So, I dont care what people who have no clue about style and dressing formally think.

    I do listen to the opinions of stylish people though. I usually lurk this thread, but it has been very helpful to me. I'm horrible with colors when it comes to suits! HORRIBLE! If it wasn't for NT and other fashion outlets I'd wear nothing but white dress ***** and solid colored ties, b/c I don't want to look like an idiot and dont know what the hell I'm doing. Listening to the RIGHT people has allowed to to step out of my comfort zone and step my dress game up.

    Dressing "better" is a process. It'll be a little uncomfortable at first. I usually wear jeans/camo shorts and a t-shirt when I'm not at work or a club. For me its about dressing right for the occasion. Nothing wrong w/ dressing down for simple stuff. Others may disagree, a lot of dudes in here wear fitted shorts and dress shirts as comfortable gear. I personally don't get down like that. Do whats comfortable to you and be able to dress for any occasion is how I do it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012
  14. peep tha sneaks

    peep tha sneaks

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    i need to find a good tailor in San Diego. Anyone?
     
  15. ballahb

    ballahb

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    P4L
     
  16. retrospect90

    retrospect90

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    I feel it, cause I definitely hate seeing dudes in them Chopper suits. Apart of me is like well that's what they wanna wear then whatever and on the other hand I'm like what the heck were they thinking?
     
  17. wj4

    wj4

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    When you're dressed outside the norm, you will draw attention, my man. You will have those who give you props and comment on you. You will also have those who say something like "that boy sure likes playing dress up, I wonder if he likes girls". You just gotta worry about yourself and ignore them. Also, participate more in the thread!

    Style is fickle, man. It changes so much that's why it's important to develop your own style because styles are timeless.

    Check out this picture of J. Kissi and friends, by all standards Travis (the dude to the far left) would get hated on because he's wearing a suit with work boots, but I doubt they care much and they're doing pretty well.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. wj4

    wj4

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    PS any of my gents on Tumblr? If so, post up links :smile:
     
  19. solarius49

    solarius49

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    I get all my stuff done in Oceanside. Alot of military tailors who do really good work for a good price. If you're ever up that way, hit up Jeanettes
     
  20. peep tha sneaks

    peep tha sneaks

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    Thanks. Kinda far for me now. I just moved down from there too. lol