*Official* New Car Care tips (Fresh Haterade for Sale!)

[realmc]

Whats good niketalk. I am 22 years old and I have finally purchased my first new car from a dealership and it is a fully loaded 2008 Acura RL. I got a supersweet deal on it, and now i unexpectedly own a car that was MSRP $55,000. The car is so nice i almost don't even want to drive it for fear it will nolonger be "new" anymore.

Anyways, I have never owned a new car, or even a "nice" car for that matter, and i am looking for tips on how to care for a new car and how toroutinely clean/wash the car. For my past cars, i have just done the basic wash with zipwax car wash which seemed to work just fine. I used to own a 95 4runnerso i rarely waxed it as it was not really needed (i know you carheads are gonna say "yes its needed to protect the paint" but quite frankly ididn't care about that cars appearance at all.)

please feel free to chime in, as this is a open discussion for everyone to input their own methods, techniques, theories and styles of maintaining that new carappearance. I want my !*$+ to be gleamin on the daily, you feel me!?

anyways i'm not a total car noob, and what i really wanna know is are all the car detailing products offered really neccesary. There are so many differentkinds and types that i get confused just looking at them and if someone could just tell me the bare minimum of what it takes to keep a car looking/performingtop notch with minimal effort that would be great. please tell me the steps you use (for example i hear people talking about using 2-3 coats of different kindsof wax sometimes but i don't know which they are talking about and which come first), and your routine.

sorry for the long post and yes i could have gone to car forums for this but i know Niketalk is fully capable of helping me out. Thanks and Happy New Year toyou all.

 

[infamousod]

TFP Polymer

biggest secret I know for car care. AFAIK its only sold at those annual car shows in big cities and that's where my dad gets it all the time.

 

[supraman1784]

got this off a forum im on pretty much Detailing 101

The Ultimate Guide to Show Prep and Detailing ( Thanks to Mr Spiffy )

What sets apart a mediocre show presence from a jaw-dropping display which wows all who see it? Lighting? Trophies? What makes a car really "pop"? Itis true that it is all items working together, but the quality of the detailing is imperative. Having an impeccable car is a mod in and of itself. Prepare toembark on a journey which, upon completion, will leave you exhausted yet strangely content. Your car will beam in all aspects and heads will turn in marvel asyou drive down the street. Welcome to the world of detailing.

**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set apart 1 ½- 2 days for the whole job**

Exterior:

Products:
Zaino Z1(or ZFX)
Zaino Z2/Z3
Zaino Z5
Zaino Z6
Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #1 Medium-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars Show Car Wax (liquid)
Meguiars Quick Detailer
Meguiars SoftBuff Pads (cutting, polishing, and finishing)
Claybar kit (Mothers, Meguiars,or Zaino)
Dawn Dishwashing Liquid
California Water Blade
The Absorber
Porter Cable 7424 buffer

Step 1:

It is important to begin with a clean slate when beginning a major paint overhaul. Begin by washing the car with Dawn dishwashing soap. I know this sounds likea detailing sin, but Dawn is perfect for stripping old buildup and leaving the paint clean and ready for the rest of the process. DO NOT make a habit ofwashing the car with Dawn, however. After washing the car, dry thoroughly with the California Water Blade and Absorber. Be careful to keep the blade clean asany particles can scratch the paint.

Step 2:

Now that the surface is fairly clean, it is time to further remove shine-blocking surface contaminants. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmfulparticles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn't necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I recommend use every3-4 months depending on your location and the environments car is usually in. However, for show prep. purposes, a claybar is an excellent way to acquire anextra-deep shine. Set aside approximately 1 ½ hours for this step. It is a good idea to wear a pair of surgical gloves while using the claybar. They arehelpful in keeping a good grip on it and blocking oils and other impurities from your hands. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles fromdirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. You canalso use a mixture of car wash concentrate (Meguiars Gold Class or Zaino Z7) and water. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar.Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottomof the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.

Step 3:

It is now time to re-wash the car. This time you will use a car wash concentrate. Re-washing will yet further remove contaminants loosened by the claybar andgive a final squeaky-clean surface on which you will begin to repair the paint.

Step 4:

It's time to begin buffing. First off is buffer choice. There are many options out there, from cheap Waxmaster units available at Wal Mart to professionalrotary buffers. Unless you are a professional, DO NOT buy a rotary buffer. Instead, use a random orbital unit, or a "civilian" buffer. I do notadvise buying a cheap unit, they will not last and do not provide the same results. They are also more likely to CAUSE additional damage. Instead, it is betterto invest in a quality unit. The best I have found is the Porter Cable 7424. Doubling as a grinder/sander, this buffer is virtually "idiot-proof" andwill give results unattainable by hand. It also has variable speeds, a useful feature in a buffer. With this unit, I recommend Meguiars Soft-Buff foam pads.The designated pad will be mentioned for each step.

When removing scratches, you will always start with the lowest intensity products first and work your way up. In this case, you are going to begin withMeguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner (first with a normal polishing pad, then with a foam cutting pad) and, only if needed, #1 Medium-cut Cleaner (polishing pad, thenfoam cutting pad). Your buffer will also be set to 5000-5200 rpm during this step. Before you begin, take a look at the paint in direct sunlight. Sunlight isthe best way to evaluate the extent of your paint damage. Just by knowing what you are dealing with may allow you to predetermine your pad choice. As a rule ofthumb, sunlight shows big swirls and scratches, and fluorescent light shows smaller ones. Thus, it is a good idea to back the car in and out of the garageperiodically to check your progress. To begin, you are going to spatter a SMALL amount of the cleaner onto a reasonable fraction of the car (i.e. the hood,then door panels, then rear section, etc.). You will continue to work it into the paint until you can no longer see it. To achieve optimum results, work fromfront to back on flat surfaces, and vertically on side panels. This will enhance the optical quality of your paint and make all angles more vibrant when youare finished. Continue like this until you have covered the whole car. Then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. This will remove any dust that hascollected and help enhance the shine. I recommend that you use quality, 100% cotton diaper rags to wipe the car. This step may require anywhere from one tofour applications fo remove all the scratches.

Step 4:

Zaino vs. Meguiars

From here you can take one of two different paths, Zaino or Meguiars. Both are excellent products and will yield amazing results, but I have found that Zainopolishes are optically superior to Meguiars. The major difference is longevity. The Zaino finish lasts longer than Meguiars, is easier to maintain, andisn't greasy. The benefit of Meguiars, though, is price. Zaino polishes cost $12.99-$16.99 per z. bottle while Meguiars #7 polish is $8.99 per 16oz.bottle. So you can obviously see the added expense. But, if you are after optimum results and price isn't as much of an object, Zaino is the way to go. Iwill still, however, include Meguiars application instructions immediately under the Zaino instructions.

Zaino:

Zaino products work and are applied differently than Meguiars. The main difference is the longer curing time. Each coat of Zaino must cure for 12-24 hours.Thankfully, the makers of Zaino have developed a compound which drastically decreases curing time. ZFX, the compound in question, is mixed with either Z2, Z3,or Z5 and allows multiple coats to be applied in a day. Please note that use of ZFX compound takes away the need for Z1 Polish Lok.

You will begin by applying Z5, a scratch-masking polish. If you plan on using a ZFX enhanced version of this polish, you will add 4-5 drops of ZFX to an ounceof polish. Apply this by hand with a Zaino polish applicator once again following the front to back and vertical technique mentioned earlier. Let this dry for30 minutes. During this time you can work on detailing another aspect of the car. After Z5 has dried, you will remove it with a large, white, 100% cottontowel. Be sure not to skip little noticed, but still necessary areas such as door sills, trunk and hood lines, and the fuel door. After all, this is detailing.Don't skip details! After completely removing the polish, mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer. Although seemingly unnecessary, it really does helpto deepen the overall shine. Depending on how many small scratches are left, you may want to repeat this process a few more times. With each application youwill notice the scratches and swirls beginning to lessen, however there shouldn't be many left after use of the paint cleaner.

Now that your paint is close to perfect it is time to develop the shine. At this time your paint is looking pretty good and you may be tempted to stop, howeveryour shine has only begun to show itself. It is time to begin with Z2 or Z3. If your paint is clear coated, you will continue with Z2, if not you will use Z3.Once again, if you are using ZFX enhanced versions of these products you will add 4-5 drops per ounce of polish. This polish will be applied exactly like Z5,following the front to back and vertical pattern. Let this too dry for 30 minutes before removing. Remove this too with a large, soft, 100% cotton towel. Alsomist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer between coats. With each additional coat you will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer. If you have arich, darker color (like black or red) this step is a must and you may want to apply as many as four coats. Lighter colors (like white or silver) can usuallyget away with one to two coats. Z2 has a high quality sealer and needs not be topped with anything else.

**Note: You can switch off between coats of Z2/Z3 and Z5, however you should always have Z2/Z3 as a final quote as they have higher optical quality.**

Meguiars:

If you decide to go the Meguiars route you will continue now with Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. This product isn't actually a glaze, but rather a purepolish. Polishes have been known to be the real "character-builders" in the paint preparation process. Polishes bring out the deep, clear shine inyour paint by feeding it with the oils it so desperately needs. Please note that you CAN use pure polish on new paint. It is non-abrasive and 100% safe. Whenusing #7, take care not to apply too much at a time. When it comes to polish, less is always more. It is far better to apply several thin coats than gobbing onone thick coat. If you notice little specks starting to develop, don't worry. You need only to keep working them out with your buffer. To beginapplication, you will spatter a few small dots of polish onto a fraction of the car as you did with the paint cleaner. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpmand using a polishing pad, work the polish into the paint until you can no longer see it. Then wipe down the excess with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. Youwill then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. You will continue in this manner for a total of 2-3 coats. You will notice the shine becoming deeper andclearer with each application.

**Note: Due to the greasy nature of the Meguiars products, you may wish to let the polish cure for an hour or more before continuing. If you are short on time,it is okay to continue immediately**

Now that your paint is blemish-free (or pretty close), it is time to seal in all the oils you have just fed your paint. Wax is the sealer. Although there aremany supporters of carnuba waxes, I prefer Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax. It is easier to apply and is more reflective. This is applied in the same manner asthe paint cleaner and polish were, following the front to back and vertical pattern. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm, you will use a polishing pad forthis step. As before, work wax into paint until almost unnoticeable. Then, remove with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. Be sure to mist and wipe the car withQuick Detailer in between coats. I do not condone multiple coats of wax in rapid succession. This will actually KILL a little of your difficultly-earned shine.Instead, allow each coat of wax to cure for a few hours before apply additional coats.

You will now go over the car with the finishing pad. This pad is good for removing any remaining wax residue and developing that little extra shine. Simplywork your way around the car quickly with your buffer set to around 5800rpm.

Congratulations! You have now finished bringing your paint up to "Spiffy" specifications. But don't start resting yet. There is still theinterior and other detailing necessities left to be done.

Interior:

Products:

Meguiars #39 Heavy-Duty Vinyl Cleaner
Meguiars #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner
Meguiars Heavy Duty Carpet Cleaner
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner/ Armorall Leather Care
Rain X Anti-Fog Wipes
Can Vacuum w/ hose and 2 attachments

Many people overlook the interior of their vehicle. After all, no one else see the inside. Why bother? You should bother because YOU spend your time inside thevehicle. The interior is your connection to the car and thus to the world you drive in. It is also a determining factor in the show arena, especially ifinterior mods are part of your presentation. This being said, let's begin.

Step 1:

You should always start by "dejunking" the car. By this I mean removing everything that isn't part of the car. It is far easier to detail theinterior when there are no McDonald's cups or Taco Bell wrappers in the way.

Step 2:

You now need to vacuum the interior thoroughly. I recommend a small, but powerful vacuum with a flexible hose and a slash-cut wand and a fuzzy attachment.While vacuuming, be sure to pay attention to details. Don't overlook areas such as: under the seats, door handles, door pockets, glove boxes, cupholders,crevices in seats, and the trunk. It is the little things like this that set a detailed car apart.

Step 3:

As it is always advised to do your dirty work before your beautifying, it is now time to remove any stains that may be present in your carpets. Up until now Ihave attained good results using a Bissel Little Green, however, due to constant problems with the quality of Bissel's machines I am currently looking fora new brand of machine.
Stain removal is fairly straightforward. When using a deep cleaning machine, you will follow the same instructions as you would use in home. Pre-soak thesurface with the cleaning solution and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Now that the stain has had time to be released from the surface, you will now vacuum it outusing your deep cleaning machine. It may be necessary to repeat this process with stubborn stains.
In addition to the use of machinery, there are also several hand-applied stain removers designed especially for automotive use. Meguiars Heavy Duty Carpet& Interior Cleaner is a good product. I would recommend trying this before buying a deep cleaning machine. Also, a quick misting of Febreze can also helpto remove any trapped smells.

Step 4:

**Note: This step is only necessary if you have stains or discoloration on your interior plastics.**

To remove grime and thoroughly clean interior plastics, I recommend Meguiars #39 Heavy-duty Vinyl Cleaner. It will remove tough stains in plastics. Simplyspray surface and wipe/scrub lightly with a double-sided sponge. Then dry as you go with a clean cloth or towel. Follow this with Meguiars #40 Vinyl &Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner applying as before. Be sure not to skip ash trays, cupholders, storage bins, or any little nook that your car may have. There is noexcuse not to pay attention to detail!

Step 5:

You can't forget the windows. The reason you are doing these next is that any of the products before would have messed them up, and cleaning the windowsmay mess up the following steps if they came first. For interior glass, I actually recommend Rain X Anti-Fog wipes. They are ammonia-free, and thus safe oninterior tinting. They also do help prevent fogging. One wipe is good for all interior glass on an average car. You will first wipe down the glass thoroughly,being careful to get in deep cracks. Also, don't forget to get the top portion of the window which often gets overlooked when the window is completelyclosed. Details! Next, buff out window with a clean, 100% cotton cloth or towel until glass is perfectly clear and the haze is gone.

Step 6:

. Now that all the ""ugly"" work is done, it is time to start beautifying your now sterile interior. Another common myth about car cleaningis that Armorall is a miracle liquid. It is actually one of the worst products to use on your interior, especially the dashboard. I recommend that you useArmorall only on wheel well plastics and on plastics in the engine bay. This being said, I would suggest that instead you would use a leather conditioner.Leather conditioners are also good for use on vinyl. The two products that I prefer and recommend most are Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner and ArmorallLeather Care. They both result in similar suppleness, with the exception that the Armorall product provides a slightly shinier appearance, which is why someprefer to use it on dark-colored leather. The Meguiars conditioner, however, provides slightly better moisturization. Choose a product based upon the criteriaof your needs. Apply either of these products with a soft cloth, a little at a time, and rub into the surface until fully absorbed.

Step 7:
Now that all steps have been completed, do a look-through of the car, taking notice of anything you might have missed. Then, re-vacuum the carpet to remove anyparticles of cloth that might have come off during the leather conditioning process.

Engine Bay:

Products:
Simple Green/Meguiars Extra All-purpose Cleaner/Degreaser
Several plastic bags
Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant /Armorall
A medium-sized paint brush
2-3 toothbrushes

One of the most often forgotten and ignored aspects of detailing is the engine bay. It is, for most people, the least seen and of last importance. However,being key in the show arena, having a clean engine bay is essential.

**Note: If your engine is exceptionably dirty, it may be necessary to take it to have it professionally steam cleaned to remove caked and burnt-on grime.**

Step 1:

Before any true detailing can be done, the metals of your engine may need to be degreased. For this, I recommend either Meguiars Extra All-purpose Cleaner or ahigh concentration of Simple Green. Both products do a great job of cutting grease. First, cover the alternator, ecu, battery, and ignition with plastic bags.Then, with a warm engine (not hot) spray on the degreaser and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Scrub, if necessary, with a medium-sized paint brush ortoothbrushes. Then, rinse with a slow stream of water. You may need to repeat this step. A paintbrush can actually be a helpful tool in cleaning the engine.Dry the engine bay with a few old rags.

Step 2:

It is now time to begin detailing the engine. Believe it or not, glass cleaner works well for shining up engine metals. If you have polished engine parts,Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer is a good product. If you have chrome parts, you will want to clean them with Mothers Chrome Polish. Painted parts needonly be misted and wiped with Quick Detailer. As for plastics and rubber hoses, either Armorall or Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/ Rubber Protectant (Meguiarsobviously being the superior product, but Armorall still get's the job done).

When working in the engine bay, be sure not to overlook details such as hoses, wiring, and turbo piping or intercoolers (if applicable). Also, look up. Theunderside of the hood is another commonly forgotten thing. Clean the lip of the hood with Quick Detailer, being careful to clean inside the hood latch andhinges. Once again, details!

Wheels, Tires, and Other Details:

Products:

Meguiars #36 Professional Wheel Cleaner
Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer
Meguiars Endurance High Gloss Tire Gel
Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant /Armorall
Meguiars PlastX
Meguiars Clear Plastic Detailer
Mothers Chrome Polish
Rain X Windshield Treatment
Windex

Wheels:

Wheels are fairly easy to care for once you know a little more about them. Before beginning, try to learn whether or not your wheels are clear coated,polished, chrome, painted, etc. Knowing this will help in product selection. You will begin by spraying them with Meguiars #36 Professional Wheel Cleaner. Itis a non-acidic product which quickly loosens road grime and brake dust. Be sure to get the brake rotors and calipers while you're at it. After letting itsit for about 2 minutes, you will rinse the rim surface with a steady stream of water. A second application may be necessary. Now, if your wheels are polishedor chrome you will polish them with Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer or Mothers Chrome Polish respectively. For either product, apply with a soft, 100%cotton cloth or towel and allow to dry to a haze. Then, with a clean cloth or towel, wipe away residue to discover a highly reflective shine. If your wheelsare clear coated or painted, you need only to dry them after use of #36.

Tires:

Provided that tires have already been washed (done while initially washing the car), you need only to dress them. I highly recommend Meguiars Endurance HighGloss. It is virtually waterproof, lasts longer than any other product I have used, and looks great. Simply apply a small dab to a sponge and wipe on.

Misc:

Wheel Wells:

Wheel wells are entirely important. They are usually a way to tell if the person who cleaned the car cared about what he was doing. To clean them, first sprayinside the wheel well liberally with Meguiars Extra or the aforementioned mixture of Simple Green. Allow to penetrate for a few minutes and rinse with a streamof water. Then dress with either Armorall or Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant. This will leave the inside of the wheel well looking clean and darkblack.

Exterior Glass:

Exterior glass is another easy, but still essential part of detailing. Begin by misting with Windex. Then buff away the haze with a clean cloth or towel. Ifyou like, you can treat your windshield with Rain X. Doing this will cause water to bead up and keep your windshild looking good longer. Simply apply with acloth or towel and allow to haze. When white, buff out with a new, clean cloth or towel.

Headlight/ Taillight Lenses:

It may also be a necessary to polish the lenses of the headlights and taillights. For this, I recommend Meguiars PlastX. It cleans and polishes clear plasticand acrylic surfaces and removes oxidation and road grime. To use, wipe lens with a clean cloth or towel and a small dab of product. Wipe for 30 seconds andleave to haze. Then, wipe clear with another part of the cloth. Follow this with Meguiars Clear Plastic Deailer. Apply this similarly, letting dry to a hazeand buffing out with a clean cloth. This process will make your lenses shine resiliently.

Mufflers/Intercoolers/Turbo Piping/Exhaust Tips:

Mufflers, intercoolers, turbo piping, and exhaust tips are all fairly easy and similar to clean. The only exception being that turbo piping and intercoolersare harder to reach. Cleaning them is only a matter of applying Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer and allowing to dry to a haze. Then remove with a cleancloth or towel to achieve a highly-reflective shine.

Thus ends our detailing journey. By now, you have probably discovered that there is a lot more work involved in detailing than you may have originally thought.Personal detailing is also quite an investment. Some of you may not be ready, willing, or just don't have the time to take up such a time-intensiveendeavor. For you, finding a detailer may a more logical choice. Fortunately for you, you now have to tools to interview and decide on a detailer. Always talkto him/her first. Get to know their methods and techniques. Become familiar with their products. In doing so, you have a better idea of how your vehicle, oneof your major investments in life, is being cared for.

So, I hope you are now equipped to take the show scene by storm and look good doing it. And if not, you will at least look good. Congratulations, you are now"Spiffy"!

By,
Jeron Kerridge

 

[supraman1784]

oh and this too

By; Guitarman

This is a VERY basic list of detailing product/tool definitions. I will add more to it on a regular basis
The amount of products and tools on the retail shelves can be intimidating and confusing for some, so let's see if we can sort them out. I purposelydecided to keep these definitions short and sweet, so as not to further complicate things. First, some DEFINITIONS;

CLAY BARS; Clay removes "bonded contaminants", the microscopic debris such as sap, paint overspray, bug remains, rail dust etc. that collects andsticks to your finish that washing can't remove. If your paint feels rough to touch or 'bumpy' and not smooth as glass, you need to clay.

PAINT CLEANERS. Paint cleaners are polishes with a high solvent content, as well as fine abrasives. The solvents in them do a good job of CHEMICALLY cleaningthe paint. These are essentially an alternative to strict abrasive polishes.

POLISH;Technically, a polish is any abrasive intended to solve a particular paint issue. Polishes fall into many varying grits, from very fine to heavy.Polishes (in the true sense ) contain NO wax or sealant.

Here are some polish types;

Glazes; A very fine polish with oils and fillers designed to heighten gloss and hide swirls. Water will rinse these away fast, so you'll need to reapplyafter heavy rain or washing the car.

Swirl Removers; Fine abrasives intended to level swirls . Every brand is of a slightly different, varying abrasiveness.Some swirl removers contain fillers,which hide swirls.

Scratch Remover; Just another name for a medium to heavy grit abrasive polish that will "cut" paint enough to remove the scratch (if possible).

Rubbing Compounds: A heavier grit polish with a larger particle size abrasive. Their goal is to quickly remove paint, but in doing so they often leave a haze(from the heavy particle size) which must be removed by a finer polish. Whenever you use a rubbing compound, you must follow it with a finer polish to achieveultimate clarity in the paint.

WET SANDPAPER. This is something generally used by professionals and takes a bit of practice. By using wet sandpaper, you can remove scratches, excessiveorange peel or runs from a repaint, overspray, acid etchings etc. Sold in grits from extra fine (2000 and +) to coarse (180 grit). A "sanding block"is used in conjunction with wetsandpaper, sold in rubber or foam. They allow the paper to cut evenly while giving even pressure across the paper's surface.

WAX;
Automotive WAX is a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients, even if it says "100 % carnauba". They just mean that they wax in it is allcarnauba, not that carnauba is the only thing in the product. There are many synthetic chemicals that allow the carnauba to stay soft, allow it to"skin", make it spreadable etc. Some products that are labeled "wax" also contain some polymer content. These are referred to as"hybrids" or a combination of natural and synthetic waxes. Wax bonds to the paint PHYSICALLY and that bond is easily broken with anything of a highlyalkaline or acid base, as well as abrasives.

POLYMER SEALANT;

In essence-synthetic wax. No natural wax in the product. Polymers bond to the paint CHEMICALLY and are tougher to remove than wax based products, which is onereason they're more durable vs wax based. Abrasives will also remove polymer sealants, as will isopropyl alcohol.



TOOLS;

Rotary Buffer: Machine that spins in a strict circular motion, focusing friction and thus heat on one point. The heat focused on a central point allows topaint to be softened and the polish/compound to be broken down easy, resulting in fast paint removal. The choice of professionals, it can result in paintdamage if used improperly.

Random Orbit Polisher; This tool rotates in a concentric orbit, much like a sped up version of the human hand, and thus doesn't generate enough heat on onepoint to damage paint. Ideal for applying liquid wax and fine abrasives, but not effective on severe paint issues.

Buffing pads; Pads can be made of 1) natural lamb's wool 2). A combination of natural wool and synthetic materials, or 3). Synthetic foam. The natural wooland synthetic combination pads are called "blended" pads. Foam pads are made in various densities, with cellular "pores" and densitydefining how they cut paint. Wool pads don't generate as much heat as foam pads, but they are prone to swirling paint. Foam pads run hotter at a given RPM,but they are less prone to swirling.marrring, and come in densities to meet every need, i.e. Cutting, polishing, finishing etc.

Spur; A spur is a metal tool that is used to remove compound and polish build up on a pad, Once the pad becomes loaded up with polish, it becomes less and lesseffective, so "spurring" the pad is necessary a few times during buffing. To do this, you hold the machine against your knee or lap, pad side down,and trigger the throttle button on and off while holding the spurring tool against the pad and moving the tool back and forth over the pad. This dislodges thecaked up compound from the pad. This only works on wool type pads, not foam. A Phillips head screwdriver will substitute for a pad spurring tool in a pinch. Onfoam, you spur the pad by using a stiff nylon brush (a toothbrush will work) in the same way.


Some common detailing issues

TIRE BROWNING; Tire browning" is a normal condition engineered into tires. Tires contain compounds called "antiozonants" that are likemicro-wax, and they are engineered to migrate out to the sidewall of the tire when flexing occurs. When they hit the air and moisture (humid climates see morebrowning for this reason), the compounds turn a brownish color. This is actually normal, but the degree of it will vary from tire manufacturer to manufacturer.It's better to cover it up with a product that makes the tires black than to strip it all off. You also shouldn't use a tire dressing with dimethylsilicone oils (like the old version of Armor-All) because they eat away the antiozoanants, resulting in graying tires and cracking.

This whole process is referred to as "blooming", and if you clean the tire with a harsh cleaner, it can essentially force the tire additives to thesurface, and the chemical reaction is shown by the brownish foam that forms on the tires when they're wet.
It cleans so well it that when you repeat this cleaning scenario over and over, it depletes the antiozonants (there's only so much in there) and you windup having none left, which in turn leads to the graying from the eventual depletion of the carbon black (called "competitive absorbers" ) that allmanufacturers use to color their tires and protect from UV. Not to mention the good possibility of dried out rubber. Which is why you should use a protectantthat contains anti-ozonants in it, to put back in what you take out from using harsh cleaners.

A thread at Autopia detailing forum on topic;

http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=40063&highlight=tire+browninghttp://autopia.org/forums...owthread...=tire+browning

In a nutshell, browning is ugly yes, but normal. Better to cover it with a quality tire dressing (preferably one that contains anti-ozonants) that makes thetire look blacker. You just but don't want to strip it with cleaners that contain hydroflouric or phosphoric acids (aka Bleech White) or strong alkalinecleaners like Simple Green etc. A good car wash soap and brush, plus a high end rubber protectant are the ticket.to get the longest life (and best appearance)from the tire. .

 

[killaotaku]

2008 Acura RL
nice choice. ive always liked the RL's. any pics brah?

 

[mexicansoul]

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

 

[gg0tti]

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

You don't know his financial situation to make a statement like that.

But as the man said above me congratulations. I prefer the old body RL(05 to 0 than the new one.

 

[mrmeeh2]

Not the best way to spend $55k, but congrats anyways.

 

[bugsymf]

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

u know him or somethin?

 

[mexicansoul]

Originally Posted by BugsyMF

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

u know him or somethin?

don't need to know him to make that statement. assuming at 22 he went 4 straight years to college, he's barely getting into any type of real, steadymoney to purchase a 50k car.

Originally Posted by Mrmeeh2

Not the best way to spend $55k, but congrats anyways.

My sentiments exactly.

 

[kdwallace]

I don't have time for all that!

I'd like to do it though - I've seen some amazing results. Anyone have any idea what it would cost to pay someone to do all that?

 

[awash242]

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

Originally Posted by BugsyMF

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

u know him or somethin?

don't need to know him to make that statement. assuming at 22 he went 4 straight years to college, he's barely getting into any type of real, steady money to purchase a 50k car.

Originally Posted by Mrmeeh2

Not the best way to spend $55k, but congrats anyways.

My sentiments exactly.

That's a lot of assumptions to make based on what little info you know about him...

 

[DeadsetAce]

real basic:

change the oil on time
wash and wax regularly to keep the outside looking good

 

[mexicansoul]

Originally Posted by kdwallace

I don't have time for all that!

I'd like to do it though - I've seen some amazing results. Anyone have any idea what it would cost to pay someone to do all that?

most mom and pops do it anywhere from 50-200 depending on the level of "detailness" you want.

They have mobile detailing too thats a lil more pricey but worth it if you're not the type to wait at a car wash.

 

[mexicansoul]

Originally Posted by awash242

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

Originally Posted by BugsyMF

Originally Posted by MexicanSoul

at 22, you shouldn't have bought such an expensive car. Congrats on the pick-up though.

u know him or somethin?

don't need to know him to make that statement. assuming at 22 he went 4 straight years to college, he's barely getting into any type of real, steady money to purchase a 50k car.

Originally Posted by Mrmeeh2

Not the best way to spend $55k, but congrats anyways.

My sentiments exactly.

That's a lot of assumptions to make based on what little info you know about him...

since most you NTers have the attention span of a 2 year old and make decisions based on image...it's simple...at 22, if you have money or dont havemoney...buying a 50k car isn't smart..buy property, save...you realize he could have got a comparable 07 fully loaded RL with 20k under miles for 30k andbelow...he could have saved 20k from jump.

50k divided by 60 months = $833. without factoring in interest and insurance...pretty much a 1k a month on car...

Where's dirty, you kids..i mean NTers are so fickle.

OP, congrats on your pick up, again.

 

[mvp07]

^

relax, not everyone in here don't have money. Some of us are blessed, some of us are not.


OP i bought my car new as well, but I really don't do the extra stuff. I just take it to the dealership for monthly maintenance.

 

[yarrh]

Hit up autopia.org. It's THE message board for car care.

I just happened to catch a Focus bump into my car twice hard trying to parallel park in a space twice its size. That being said, I'm gonna kick the #*$%out of it.

 

[mrmeeh2]

Realtalk, MexicanSoul has a point. Even if it was assumptions, there are many people who fall in that category. With that kind of bread, its obvious to go copsomething on a higher status ie: Lexus, BMW, Merc, etc.

 

[dublbagn]

depending on where you live, buy thick rubber mats to avoid tracking snow in...and immediately buy a second set of OEM mats...ebay is your best bet forthat....

dont park outside....keep it in a garage if possible.....no "gunning" it for the first 5k miles, and no slamming on the brakes for at least 2kmiles....you have to break the car in slowly, I would even take the precaution of now "putting her away wet" (for lack of a better term)...take 30seconds in idle before you shut the car off and watch out for the rolling in reverse and putting it in drive...

 

[Too_smoooth]

hope your in a safe neighborhood, cause woke up this morning and realized i got car jacked. Not a good way to start off the day

 

[mc otaku]

How much did you pay? You got a top of da line Ac man... the RL is sick. take care of it good though...hate paying money for luxery car parts. PICS!

 

[josebronx]

Project car is a really nice mag. that teaches alot of DIY stuff. They don't exactly use new cars but just about evrything has been covered includingwashing your car.

 

[stillin729]

first question

do you live at home?

 

[justhotkicks]

Originally Posted by Mrmeeh2

Realtalk, MexicanSoul has a point. Even if it was assumptions, there are many people who fall in that category. With that kind of bread, its obvious to go cop something on a higher status ie: Lexus, BMW, Merc, etc.

MexicanSoul isn't wrong, but he doesn't know the OP's situation. The car is MSRPed at $55k, but many dealerships have been unloaded previous genTLs and RLs at great prices; some have the TL Type-S at $28k OTD. Maybe he's rich, maybe his parents helped, maybe he doesn't want a used car. Whoknows.

But yes, generally speaking, buying a "luxury" car at that age is by far one of the WORST ways to save for the future.

 

[gg0tti]

Originally Posted by StillIn729

first question

do you live at home?

Yes if he just graduated college and is still living at home then I can see this a problem.

But hey I would not do all that on my car. I'm too lazy. Quick wash and dry in front of my house or pay this guy a few houses down to do it.