The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

Fongstarr - Thanks, it's all good man. I guess I'll just have to wait a couple more weeks and cop a T2I. I played around with my friends for a while and I loved it so might as well.
 
Just anounced. Wonder if this is going to be the start of more colors to come.
nikon-d3100-red-camera.jpeg

http://nikonrumors.com/20...nikon-d3100-camera.aspx/
 
Originally Posted by ksteezy

Originally Posted by Mr Fongstarr

Just anounced. Wonder if this is going to be the start of more colors to come.
nikon-d3100-red-camera.jpeg

http://nikonrumors.com/20...nikon-d3100-camera.aspx/
would never get that, colored camera bodies look a bit amateurish if you are trying to branch out into the pro-world.
+1. They're usually amateur cameras too. I kind of like the idea of a white camera, but I'd probably never get one haha.
 
Originally Posted by Mez 0ne

Originally Posted by ksteezy

Originally Posted by hadegbite

honestly i cant remember my settings...if you check my flickr the exact specs should be their. One thing i can say the most important thinkg for low light is your lens. This was shot with a canon 17-55 2.8....When taking some pics artist i like the natural lights of the venue cause it sets the mood.
you can very well capture plenty of ambient light while exposing your subject, just bouce your flash, set your iso high, your shutter at around 160 and your aperture low...
something like this...

6119080891_bff7a8e1f3_b.jpg
I swear every time I use flash indoors the subject is bright as can be but the background is near black, I'll mess around with those settings tonight for experimentation.
...what kind of flash are you guys using? I am pretty much only using the built in flash since I rarely use flash to begin with.


Just adding two cents...the best solution to this problem is to do a few test shots and set you camera ISO and aperture such that your background is lit properly, then add flash to light the subject.  Though some hot shoe flashes are better than others, any with a head that is adjustable is better than the on camera flash because you can bounce it and there are more options to diffuse it.  I have a Canon 430exII, but find that as I better understand how to set my camera in different lighting situations, the less I use it. 
 
Originally Posted by phaze1123

Originally Posted by Mez 0ne

Originally Posted by ksteezy

you can very well capture plenty of ambient light while exposing your subject, just bouce your flash, set your iso high, your shutter at around 160 and your aperture low...
something like this...

6119080891_bff7a8e1f3_b.jpg
I swear every time I use flash indoors the subject is bright as can be but the background is near black, I'll mess around with those settings tonight for experimentation.
...what kind of flash are you guys using? I am pretty much only using the built in flash since I rarely use flash to begin with.


Just adding two cents...the best solution to this problem is to do a few test shots and set you camera ISO and aperture such that your background is lit properly, then add flash to light the subject.  Though some hot shoe flashes are better than others, any with a head that is adjustable is better than the on camera flash because you can bounce it and there are more options to diffuse it.  I have a Canon 430exII, but find that as I better understand how to set my camera in different lighting situations, the less I use it. 
tired.gif
 
^^^Same thing I was doing when I read it!

When you are using Flash forget about the aperture or ISO to control the ambient ..

The only independent control that affect the ambien like is the shutter. If anything you will want to drag the shutter to let some avail light to register and compliment the image ...

Nothing he said make sense ...
But then again he might be talking about TTL flash and then I completely understand ... Except the aperture low (hopefully he means wide open instead of close.
 
Originally Posted by RiKaN HaVoK

^^^Same thing I was doing when I read it!

When you are using Flash forget about the aperture or ISO to control the ambient ..

The only independent control that affect the ambien like is the shutter. If anything you will want to drag the shutter to let some avail light to register and compliment the image ...

Nothing he said make sense ...
But then again he might be talking about TTL flash and then I completely understand ... Except the aperture low (hopefully he means wide open instead of close.


What I said made no sense?Your ISO and shutter go hand in hand, when photographing events where subjects are dancing and moving very fast, you cannot drop your shutter below 120...at that point you are likely to get some sort of light trails...although the flash will probably freeze your subject...but why risk it?...if you want perfect stills with no gimmicky light trails or motion blur, just up your ISO and this will help your camera absorb more ambient while keeping your shutter at a good speed to freeze everything in the frameWhy would you think the use of your aperture controls goes out the window when you use flash?...I don't see how THAT makes sense...besides controlling the amount of light your camera can absorb, it also controls DOF...something your flash doesn't.Picture can probably explain it better...here is the effect you'll get by dragging the shutter in a very dynamic environment like a club...

4068830647_666d15fc82_o.jpg


Here is what you get by keeping your shutter fast enough to eliminate motion/light trails and bumping up your ISO a bit to bring in some ambient in a very similar environment.

5892205011_5c4f6b2eea_b.jpg


They both work IMO, it all comes down to preference and the event, from my experience in a club, this is very acceptable, when shooting events and weddings, clients want clean, non-gimmicky shots, so in this case light trails/ghosting/motion blurr can be mistaken for amateur-*@% work..same goes for the use of a fisheye lens..I learned the hard way.
 
LoL at your reply ... did you bother to read my last statement? Probably not ..

Also aperture goes out the window when you using flash? Buahahaha .. go back to school man .. before you make statements like that you need to understand your audience and understand there are many ways to shoot and many different scenarios.

I know for a fact that you are talking about a mounted flash not a manual flash. I also know for a fact that you are using TTL because you are making random control changes and not one is to your flash. Meaning that the flash is understanding your changes and its making adjustment to the power output. I also know you probably have little to no experience on manual flashes. I know this because if you did you would now that aperture control your flash light and the shutter controls your ambient. That's why when shooting with manual flashes is a most to have a tripod for low light situations.

And if you knew that you sure did a piss poor job on explaining it.

Shame on you .. I said I understood and you slapped me. And please when you talk about lenses and aperture please use the correct terminology .. wide open or close .. not low or high that makes no sense.
 
Honestly in a fast pace environment, you are gonna tell me is not more convenient and safer to let your flash handle the light output while you handle your camera??...I don't understand the condesendent tone, I obviously said that there are different ways to shoot thy can work, you talking to me as if I haven't been shooting for a while and I'm not good at it...oh wait, surely I'm just putting random settings in and hoping for a good shot.
 
A tripod??...do you see the type of pictures we are talking about here??...you getting all fired up over nothing, lmao @ "use the right terminology" this is niketalk man, not FM or POTN, majority of wedding photogs I've worked with all shoot ETTL...no time to be fumbling with flash output ^^^bro, if you have that skill more power to you, but don't try to call me out because IT'S OBVIOUS I don't set my Flash on manual.Edit*** I honestly don't see where the misunderstanding is or how why I said makes no sense or why you think ISO is irrelevant for ambient control when using a mounted flash...if you have a better method to take shots of fast moving objects(people on dancefloor) while capturing as much ambient light without any ghosting/motion blur please enlighten me, some sample shots would be greatly appreciated, we can always learn something new.
 
...speaking of flashes. Anyone know where I can get the best deal on some PocketWizards?
 
my dude my 1st statement was about I didn't understand what you was talking about because you started throwing random settings.

my second statement was me understanding you because you was talking about TTL flash.

oh course you ignore my last statement and proceeded to school me on photography.

hence my reply.

with that said - I can agree with you that if you have a mounted flash and always want properly light/expose shots
Then you take full advantage of your TTL capabilities.

Of course I don't always want perfectly light and frankly that can become boring at times. In addition I don't like event shooting and I mostly shoot landscapes and fashion. So my view on lighting is way different.

Lastly, to go back to my original point .. please don't assume everyone is using the mounted flash because that's not the case. Don't assume everyone is doing events because that's not the case.
 
The only misunderstanding here was you not reading my original reply at its entirety.

IAlso, just because this is not a photography forum does not mean we have to dumb down. All that will promote is stupidity and make someone sound stupid when trying to convey a question.Also, I never ever ever said that ISO shutter or aperture were irrelevant when shooting on a mounted flash. However, you did say that aperture goes out the window when using a flash. Now that's a general statement about all flashes which is certainly not true.
 
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