The Official Photography Thread - Vol. 3

Some photos from national football games 2 days ago,
lost my phone then all my emails + Facebook got hacked by the thief outside the stadium :smh:


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I would highly recommend changing that. Once you've seen the effect of diffraction at f/22 you'll never go back - as you say you'll be much better around f/10. Then you'll get better results with the hyperfocal distance. I use an app to work that out - just plug in the f stop and focal length and it will say something like 6m. Focus at that and you'll get nice landscapes with everything (pretty much) in focus.

That's the point of the hyperfocal distance - it's just acknowledging that there are other factors (the atmosphere, the limits of resolution...) which means that focussing far away isn't better.

I also like the look too - if there's anything in the foreground it looks much better set up like that.

It worked for Ansel Adams...

I never thought to do that. I shoot at f/22 mostly to get a longer exposure but for night shots like that, I don't always necessarily need 30 seconds or more. I'll definitely try that out next time.

it is difficult to use hyperfocal distance on modern lenses as many don't have distance scales, it is such a useful tool though

first snow of the year where i'm at, so no more outdoor hoops:

Untitled by
a0, on Flickr

tried (and failed) to get some macro shots of snowflakes, also forgot to use focusing rail i have that would have made this whole lot easier (but probably not any more successful):

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Untitled by a0, on Flickr

Untitled by a0, on Flickr

infrared black & white

Untitled by a0, on Flickr
 
JEEEEZZZZZ the bokeh at 1.2 :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x

The stuff behind the lens is like 12-18 inches back a that most :rofl:

Plenty sharp for what i'll be shooting too with the focus point placed on the 24-70 text.

I've never printed larger than 20x30 so this sharpness will be great.

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Once I stopped it to about f/2 it was scary sharp :lol: (no pic sample of that)
 
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it is difficult to use hyperfocal distance on modern lenses as many don't have distance scales, it is such a useful tool though

That's true - that's why I use an app. You put your camera details in and it saves them, then you just need focal length (to be really accurate I snap a shot and then check the exif in the camera) and F stop and it gives you the distance. Then I use the single point autofocus to something at that distance and it works really well. I've always been good at estimating distances so maybe that helps.

My new glass has a non-rotating front element which I like too as if it rotates it's easy to knock off the focus changing filters or something.
 
Decided to go out with my twin brother to this cool amphitheater under construction to take some shots and practice

still trying to learn how to use my Nikon D3200 
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Now that I'm finally on Christmas break I'll prob watch some tutorials on Youtube 

Edited this last pic on my phone since the eye wasn't really in focus, so I just put a flare then made it purple

Same with this one when i zoomed in the eyes were kind of not clear so i just put some flares 

Made me think of Mortal Combat so I like the outcome even though it doesn't look real at all 

Also I really like moody photos with very little light, like after sunset/blue hour, or even inside with heavy shadows

How do I go about taking those type of photos without flash? They end up blurry. 

I'm guessing my ISO? I don't even know how to change ISO f stop or whatever that stuff is called. 
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Is that the issue? Even if it isn't I'll def look up all that stuff because I don't know anything about it as of right now 
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^ I'd look it up :lol:

Bump up the iso (larger number), and make the aperture larger (smaller number). I like the pictures though. And any info on the jacket?
 
Higher ISO = less light you need

I do arouns 100 for bright sunny days, or 200-400 for sunny days but I wanna work in the shade.

When the suns out or you are in a darker area you could bump the ISO higher but the higher you go the grainier (noise) the picture will get.

But then if you adjust yor ISO then you have to adjust your shutter speed and aperture, they all work hand in hand.
 
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^ I'd look it up
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Bump up the iso (larger number), and make the aperture larger (smaller number). I like the pictures though. And any info on the jacket?
okay cool. I'll play around with it and also look up some more stuff 

the jacket is also the nike vapor windrunner storm fit running jacket in like a dark green color 
Higher ISO = less light you need

I do arouns 100 for bright sunny days, or 200-400 for sunny days but I wanna work in the shade.

But then if you adjust yor ISO then you have to adjust your shutter speed and aperture, they all work hand in hand.
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^^^^Haha. I hear you man. I think that is why I didn't initially edit this. This is actually a 2 stacked photo with one shot at f/22 and another one shot at f/8 since I was getting a lot of flares and what not. I stacked them two together and got rid of what I could but there are obvious flaring on the bridge that I just didn't want to clone out. The cars got cropped from not having both of images shot at the same focal point. Oddly this was my 3 time at this location and I have yet to shoot a proper shot here where everything looks fine. I think this spot is more suitable during the day since at night, the bridge gets super dark and the lights get really in the way.
 
^ I was just going to say that I think the lights are too distracting in this picture. They overpower the image. I'd like to see the non-f22 picture.
 
Here is the other photos. I didn't hate the star burst as much as I just hated those night lights creating some intense light. It is hard to balance the overall mood with the bridge being in the dark.

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I saw this online and noticed the light post wasn't lit or the photographer made it so it looked like he didn't get any light really emitting from it. I probably should have fired off more exposures to get all different looks.


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Here is the other photos. I didn't hate the star burst as much as I just hated those night lights creating some intense light. It is hard to balance the overall mood with the bridge being in the dark.




I saw this online and noticed the light post wasn't lit or the photographer made it so it looked like he didn't get any light really emitting from it. I probably should have fired off more exposures to get all different looks.

this is daytime from another photographer

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this is daytime from another photographer

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I think daytime photos look better just cause the focus of the bridge is exposed right rather than vice versa. It's crazy how so many people are there though just taking the same photos as everyone else. A great spot though for a landscape or portrait.
 
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