Official Air Jordan 1 Retro High Thread Vol: Best Model/Thread

Best colorway?

  • Black/Red

    Votes: 1,038 44.2%
  • Royal

    Votes: 319 13.6%
  • Chicago

    Votes: 453 19.3%
  • Shadow

    Votes: 175 7.4%
  • Black Toe

    Votes: 237 10.1%
  • UNC

    Votes: 77 3.3%
  • Kentucky

    Votes: 19 0.8%
  • Neutral Grey

    Votes: 32 1.4%

  • Total voters
    2,350
So they added more pairs?....thought the cycle for wings was 12K.

There was an "exclusive access" restock on snkrs couple of days ago
Looked to be a FSR so I'm guessing they must of had a ton of pairs
Kinda curious how many pairs Nike actually released on RD
 
Really wish we knew the breakdown of what the leather used for the shoes Consist of. I know Jordan doesn't use 100% real leather or do they!?!?
 
I did some more digging... from what I can find our "glitter" is actually called "leather bloom" / "leather spew" and is directly related to the tanning process of the leather-it can be caused by the raw material or the manufacturing process. Unless someone tests it, there is going to be no way for us to identify exactly what it is. But it's either fats, salts, or another contaminant coming through the leather and crystallizing on the surface. High temperature and humidity seem to be a driving factor as well. Some of the info is below and a link to the full article..

LEATHER and SKIN – What's That White Stuff?

Leather refers to the skins of animals that have been tanned or semi-tanned for use. There are many types of leather tanning () which give skins different looks and feels. Since leather is an organic material, it is susceptible to many different forms of deterioration. Some can cause white stuff to appear on the surface, which may be difficult to distinguish from one another.

In Alaskan collections, there are various kinds of tanned and untanned skins and hides. Tlingit armor, fishing nets, gutskin parkas, babiche snowshoe lashings (made from moose or caribou rawhide), boots, tool lashings, model and full-sized kayaks, drums, and military gear are among the most common leather items.

2. POSSIBLE CAUSES

Fatty Bloom

The most common white stuff we have seen on Alaskan leather items is white bloom resulting from fats, oils and waxes and may be referred to in the literature as ‘fatty bloom,’ ‘fat bloom,’ or ‘fatty spue (or spew)’. These terms all refer to the migration of fats/oils through the leather material that crystallize on the surface in the presence of air. When seeing fuzzy white growth on an object, people’s initial assumption is often that it is a mold or mildew. But this is not always the case. Blooms can sometimes have a feathery or matted fibrous look similar to mold, but microscopic examination and solubility tests can confirm the presence (or absence) of bloom.

Bloom can be considered as being Primary or Secondary. Primary bloom results from fats used during the tanning process and can be considered as an inherent vice of the material. Manufacturing flaws contribute to Primary bloom and can cause mineral salts to exude or fat bloom to develop through insufficient degreasing methods during production. Secondary bloom is caused by the application of fats and oils to the surface of the leather. At one time, it was believed that applying leather dressing or other kinds of soaps and oils to a leather surface would extend the life of a leather object. Now it is known that this is not the case and often the application of such substances can do quite a bit of damage

There are a number of hypotheses regarding the exact mechanism of the formation of these blooms. Some attribute it to free fatty acids migrating through the leather (Ordonez and Twilley 1998, 3-4). Analysis by Scott R. Williams (1988, 65-84) found bloom on objects to be primarily composed of a variety of fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, myristic and dicarboxylic acids (such as azelaic). These were present individually or occasionally as mixtures; however palmitic and stearic were the most commonly found (Williams 1988, 68-69).

Others have cited lactic acid, produced from the presence of potassium lactate in leather dressings, as the principle component of white efflorescence on leather (Gottlieb 1982, 39). In general, however, it is believed that temperature and humidity levels play important factors in the migration and crystallization of whatever is moving through and out of the leather.

Bloom can look powdery or gummy in appearance. Powdery bloom can be caused by either the natural fat of the hide or fatty materials applied to the leather. A number of variables are implicated in the formation of powdery bloom. These include: temperature, humidity, acidity of the leather, or materials used during the tanning process. Sticky or gummy bloom is believed to be caused by oils that are highly oxidizable, such as fish oils. If these kinds of oils were used during processing (and incompletely removed) or applied later, then they may cause sticky white bloom. High temperatures and humid environments, as well as exposure to air and light can accelerate these formations.

Fat bloom is often primarily found on areas of an object exposed to air. For example, on a leather-bound book the spine of the book (if it faces outward) may have the heaviest bloom. In some instances, it has been found that items closer to an air conditioning vent had a higher occurrence of bloom (Gottlieb 1982, 37) indicating that air circulation, temperature, and humidity play an important role.

Salt Effluorescence

Salt efflorescence is less common as a culprit on leather objects, but can occasionally be found on leather as inorganic salt spues. Leather items that have been worn (or in contact with perspiration in any way) may develop salt efflorescence as the salts migrate through the leather and crystallize on the surface.

Mold

Mold is typically described as having a fuzzy, velvety, or sometimes slimy appearance. When viewed under a microscope, the vegetative part of mold (known as mycelium http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycelium) can be seen as thin, thread-like branching hyphae and is very distinctive from the crystalline structure of salts. Mold growth generally begins to occur on organic materials when the environment is at 70% relative humidity or higher. The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) gives the following useful chart for mold growth on their “10 Agents of Deterioration” website http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/crc/articles/mcpm/chap10-eng.aspx:

Corrosion

Metal items in contact with leather can react with the fats and oils, creating organo-metallic corrosion products. Quite frequently, the metal in question is a copper-alloy and therefore the corrosion products building up will be a bright green instead of white.

Pesticide Residue

Up until the late 20th century, the application of toxic pesticides to organic materials in museum collections was a widespread and accepted practice. Compounds made of arsenic or mercury were sometimes sprayed or dusted onto artifacts to prevent pest damage. DDT was also common as were moth balls comprised of dichlorobenzene or naphthalene. The carcinogenic and hazardous nature of these chemicals is now known and they are no longer used. However, the residues of past applications remain and they can sometimes show up as white residues that may be confused with other salt formations. When handling objects made of organic materials such as skin, it is always better to err on the side of caution and protect yourself from possible exposure to toxic chemicals. Wear protective gloves and a lab coat or apron. You may wish to wear a dust mask to prevent breathing in toxic dust.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/alaskawhitestuffid.wordpress.com/2011/08/09/leather-and-skin/amp/
 
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So the official end to summer casual Fridays in the office is tomorrow... thinking of doing a DIY OFF WHITE
 
Y Yafayn .... My reds don't have the 'r' on it (like my CHIs and SBBs) but the navys do like virtually all of the other remastereds outside of the top of '15. Both mettalics I got came from footstores -- navys (FTL) and reds (FTA) -- and there's no noticeable difference in leather thickness.

Referring to the R (Registered Trademark I think it stands for) there's 2 of em on the Nike Air logo on the Reds but not the Navys. Thanks for posting the pic, my reds and navy's match yours exactly.
 
is it that much of a burden to wipe off the glitter? i usually hit my joints with an armor all wipe before I step out anyway
 
After all these years, I still haven't seen glitter on my 1s. I think it has to do with humidity and temperature?
i suspect the same thing. i keep the dehumidifier running 24/7 in the summer, and i never had a problem with any shoe (glitter, sole separation, mid sole issues, etc)
 
It's not so much wiping it off that's the issue, it's that it's there at all that sucks. Plus, I've seen some cases where it doesn't wipe off.
 
Haven't bought a pair of Jordan's in forever. I've been out the game for a while...really have only bought shoes to hoop in or runners for comfort. Got these off NDC. Can't beat the price for an OG colorway. People are sleeping. Need the metallic blues now. Have a feeling people are going to kick themselves once these are gone.
 

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Haven't bought a pair of Jordan's in forever. I've been out the game for a while...really have only bought shoes to hoop in or runners for comfort. Got these off NDC. Can't beat the price for an OG colorway. People are sleeping. Need the metallic blues now. Have a feeling people are going to kick themselves once these are gone.

Welcome!
 
For those still having the glitter issue I just want to give some insight on a possible solution and what's been working for me over the years. Do any of you guys use 2 gallon ziplock bags to store your shoes? I do and have been for years. I put the shoes in the bag, then before I seal it all the way I leave about an inch opening and literally suck (pause) most (if not all) of the air out of the bag, then fully seal the bag. Like a vacuum seal, so to speak. After that I put them back in the box, paper and all. That's how I've been storing most if not all my shoes for years. Keeps them all pristine and new looking and in case your wondering the leather does get to breath because all of the air hasn't been "vacuumed" out and some (very little) air does seep back in over time. Saying all this to say this:

With my 1s that I ziplock this way I don't get any glitter whatsoever. On the other hand the 1s that I've let sit inside the box without the ziplock has gotten glitter on them. Especially my lows which I haven't ziplocked and my 2013 black toes and barons that I had sitting "un-bagged" for a while. I believe over exposure to the air activates the glitter issue on 2013 to present 1s, unfortunately. Less exposure to air, less likely to get glitter. I know this is long but I really hope this helps someone. May seem OD or OCD but in this case my OCD paid off as I don't have glitter on any of my coveted 1s.
 
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